Not So Gritty Genoa

First Impressions of Genoa

Getting to Genoa (Genova) from Austin was anything but easy. After a canceled flight and three additional flights added to our itinerary, we finally arrived at 11 p.m.—10 hours later than planned.

The icing on the cake? We were the only two passengers at baggage claim without our luggage. Normally, we carry on our bags, but due to a weight restriction on a domestic Lufthansa flight, we had to check them at the gate. With all the cancellations and re-bookings, our bags weren’t lost—just delayed. When we asked where they were, the response was simply: “Somewhere in Italy.”

Navigating the Old Town at Night

After filing a claim, we grabbed a taxi to our apartment in the heart of Genoa’s old town (Centro Storico). Because cars aren’t allowed in this area, we were dropped off at Piazza San Giorgio for what was supposed to be a quick two-minute walk.

Let me set the scene: the caruggi, Genoa’s old winding alleyways, are dark, narrow, and damp. Exhausted from travel and navigating with questionable Google Maps directions, we found ourselves dragging luggage through unfamiliar streets, searching for our lockbox. It wasn’t exactly the warm Italian welcome we had imagined—but we made it!

First Impressions of Genoa

Our first few mornings were spent exploring the old town and getting our bearings. Many blogs describe Genoa as gritty, and yes, there’s graffiti everywhere and areas near the port could use some TLC.

But once you step outside these small hubs, you’ll find grandeur everywhere—stunning architecture, vibrant neighborhoods, and lively piazzas that reveal the city’s true charm. Genoa is a city of contrasts: raw and urban in some areas, elegant and historic in others.

A Week of Remote Work and Local Exploration

Our first week was a mix of remote work and morning adventures. We spent our mornings wandering the city at a relaxed pace, trying new restaurants for lunch (see our What to Eat section in the Genoa City Guide), then heading back to work in the afternoons.

In the evenings, we cooked simple dinners at home, with groceries from local markets and the nearby Eataly, which offers incredible food selection and sweeping views. After dinner, we’d take short walks through the neighborhood—soaking in the atmosphere of crowded bars, live street music, and locals enjoying their evening aperitivo.

This nightly ritual quickly became one of our favorite parts of Genoa. Italian evenings are pure magic.

Exploring Boccadasse, Albaro, and Carignano

On our first Saturday, we walked to Boccadasse, a nearby fishing village every travel blog insists you must see. We arrived late morning, but there wasn’t much activity. We snapped a few photos and strolled back along the waterfront promenade, enjoying views of the Ligurian Sea.

The highlight of this walk wasn’t Boccadasse itself, but discovering the beautiful neighborhoods of Albaro and Carignano along the way. Lined with elegant mansions and ornate architecture, this area felt worlds apart from the “gritty” port district.

Many tourists never see places like Albaro or Carignano, as they stick to the main attractions in the city center. If you have extra time, exploring these lesser-known neighborhoods offers a completely different side of Genoa.

The Hills of Genoa: Views Worth the Climb

Although Genoa is a coastal city, it’s surprisingly hilly. Unlike the flat beach towns we’re used to in the U.S., the Ligurian coast is full of elevation. The neighborhoods are stacked on different levels, offering panoramic viewpoints everywhere.

If the uphill walks become too much, Genoa has free funiculars (trams) scattered throughout the city. These lifts are lifesavers and help you access beautiful residential areas above the city center. One of our favorites was south of Castelletto, where tree-lined streets, small parks, and buzzing cafés created a completely different vibe than the old town below. It’s proof that greenery and open space can transform a city’s atmosphere. The contrast made me appreciate Genoa’s hidden beauty even more.

Why Genoa Stole Our Heart

Despite a rainy May, Genoa has completely won us over. The cool weather, incredible seafood, fresh pesto and focaccia, and proximity to the Italian Riviera make it a dream destination.

While it’s not the easiest city to reach or travel through, the combination of waterfront views, vibrant neighborhoods, and authentic Italian culture makes Genoa worth the effort.

We could absolutely see ourselves living here someday.

Plan Your Visit

If you are thinking about visiting Genoa, check out our Genoa City Guide for restaurant recommendations, what to try, and the best things to see in the city.