Genoa (Genova) has a reputation for being "gritty". Yes, there's graffiti all over the buildings, and yes, the old town's narrow streets are dark and damp and can feel deserted at times. But aside from the city lacking a little curb appeal, these "flaws" are also what make it beautiful. Step outside in the evening hours and the city comes to life. Not to mention - venture outside of the old port and old town and the city shines even more. You'll even find parks and tree-lined streets in the surrounding neighborhoods!
Although this city may not be on everyone's bucket list, their loss is your gain. Let's start with the weather - it's some of the best we've ever experienced in Italy. We've heard of the famed "Mediterranean" climate, but for a while thought it was a myth. A lot of places in Italy get hot. And if they aren't hot, they have a particularly cold winter. Some places unfortunately have both. Genoa has neither. Year round the climate is mild, hardly experiencing freezes and rarely getting about 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Let's talk about the food - the focaccia and pesto are spectacular. But it doesn't just stop there! The fresh seafood and perfectly cooked pasta are to die for. There's also less English spoken here and fewer translations offered on menus than what you would see in other major tourist cities (that's a plus in our book!).
So if you can handle a little grittiness and exchange it for fewer English speaking visitors, amazing weather, and to-die-for food, Genoa is a place that should be on your list.
genova
genoa/
where to stay in Genoa
where to stay in Genoa
centro storico
where to eat in Genoa
This might have been our favorite dining experience in Genoa (Genova). Chef Ruggero Maria Di Luca’s creations are nothing short of fantastic, and the service was impeccable from start to finish.The evening began with a complimentary flute of sparkling wine and three regional-inspired small bites, personally presented and explained by the chef—a wonderful touch that set the tone for the meal. If you’re feeling adventurous, try the sea urchin pasta. It’s bold and unique, though definitely not for every palate. The fregolotto was excellent, but the stuffed squid stole the show—absolutely delicious! Be sure to save room for dessert: the chocolate mousse and salted caramel panna cotta were the perfect finish to an unforgettable evening.
We found this restaurant while wandering through the caruggi in centro storico. Chef Davide greeted us warmly and took care of us throughout our meal. His menu is updated regularly, and his passion towards his food shines through. If you're looking for something just beyond the traditional Genovese cuisine, this is your place! Start with the octopus from the antipasti, then our favorites are any of his pastas that have seafood. He has a dessert with gianduia that was also very tasty!
Tucked away off Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Trattoria Rosmarino is a must when eating in Genoa. Serving up classic Ligurian dishes made with top-quality ingredients, this cozy spot offers both indoor seating with daily specials on chalkboards and outdoor tables with a view of the piazza fountain. Don’t miss their homemade pastas topped with local pesto or creamy walnut sauce (pansotti salsa di noci), or the fresh seafood—we literally followed the tuna delivery right into the restaurant! End your meal with their heavenly pine nut cake and gelato. Reservations recommended.
A cozy spot in centro storico, the owners Sara and Roberta do a blend of the traditional Genovese cuisine with international flair. When we were there, there were sprinklings of Vietnamese throughout the menu, with an amazing Banh Xeo that we had as a starter. For something traditional, the spaghetti with clams was one of our favorite pastas on the trip. And we loved the 'Sicily' dessert - basically a deconstructed cannolo with multiple flavors of riccota, pistachio, and passion fruit coming through.
Located near Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Hostaria Ducale is small and intimate. The menu offers a choice to order a la carte or choose from a selection of tasting menus. Whichever you decide, you won't be disappointed! Favorites include a seafood risotto and a very creative dish that reminded us of sponge cake and resembled bread and a yellow icing with seeds that looked like butter. At first we even thought they had given us another bread course by mistake! They called the dish scarpetta (literal translation is little shoe) which in Italy means to use bread to clean your plate (think scraping your plate of the last pasta sauce, etc. as to not leave any goodness behind!). It was delicious and a very clever palate cleanser to transition us into the on-menu inventive desserts that will end the night on a high note. Reservations required.
This romantic restaurant has intimate nooks and crannies for a semi-private dining experience for all of its guests. It also offers outdoor seating when the weather permits. They serve classic Ligurian dishes in a modern, up leveled fashion. We will say - this was some of the BEST bread we had all trip! It was absolutely incredible and better than most of the foccacerias we tried. This is not to take away from the actual food itself, which is also very tasty. We recommend the seafood pastas - they are highly inventive, fresh, great quality, and will leave you wanting to keep eating them. If you read into our blog, we tend to stick to antipasti and primi, and don't do a lot of secondi. We recommend getting secondi at Ristorante Santa Teresa - in fact, when we have tried to replicate the pescato del giorno of branzino, olives. and tomatoes at home because it was so good. Save room to try the non traditional cheese cake with pistachios. It is incredible!
trattoria da maria
This feels like Nonna's kitchen and all the in-laws are over - the food is delicious but it's just a bit crazy. If you're not careful, you could be like Kevin McCallister in Home Alone, and everyone eat your favorite cheese pizza before you (just kidding, they don't run out of food.. I don't think). Bad jokes aside, they make a fantastic trenette pesto col pesto allo genovese and the prices can't be beat. Get here when they open! They don't take reservations and the line will be out the door if you wait too long. You'll find the entrance under the sign up the street!
Close to Via Garibaldi (but far enough away to avoid the tourist crowds), this quaint ristorante changes its menu weekly. They have a great selection of Genovese classics along with inventive new dishes. The staff is very friendly and patient - something Genovese in general don't have a reputation for! From the starters to the desserts, everything is made with care. Our favorites include the focaccia (made with tomatoes or onions), the ravioli with beef, the fettuccine with clams, and the rabbit. There are also a wide selection of desserts to finish off your meal.
Drinks + Aperitivo in Genoa
Blink and you'll miss this spot! In Piazzetta Chighizola, it's tucked behind the gelato shop next door. If you're not careful, you might even sit at the wrong table. You'll want to choose Cantine di Colombo. We stumbled across this place walking towards the general vicinity of where we had a dinner reservation. The beverages and snacks provided were made very well and with high quality ingredients (unlike many places that offer aperitivo). They have another location in the city so make sure you choose the correct address. And if you are in the mood for a bottle of wine to go, step inside their shop while you're at it!
what to see in Genoa
what to see in Genoa
We are sure you've seen this fountain on Instagram, if you've been looking at Genoa. All the online photos don't diminish the experience in person. The buildings and porticos that surround it make for a great background for all those urban photos of Genoa you're looking for.
Piazza Raffaele De Ferrari
Acquario di Genova
Mercato Orientale
The largest aquarium in Italy! Home to dolphins, manatees, seals, penguins, sharks and more, this aquarium has a primary focus on the Mediterranean Sea, but doesn't stop there. It also has sections on the Antarctic and locations near the equator. It's a fun, educational experience for the whole family and is worth a visit!
Located on Via XX Settembre, the market has a great selection of vendors with fresh produce, baked goods, meats, cheeses, flowers, and other local items. There's also a food court in the back that's great for a quick snack or meal. Come here to pick up ingredients for a picnic or for a meal if you're cooking in. Also, this is a great place to practice your Italian with the vendors!
In addition to the aquarium, there are other sightseeing activities along the port including Galata Museo del Mare (museum of the sea), the Bigo (a lift that takes you up for panoramic views), and an Eataly if you want to grab a quick bite or shop for some groceries. Further down, there's the Porto Antico district with a restaurant row that you have a view of all the monstrous yachts that come to port in Genoa.
old harbour
Christopher Columbus's house
Okay, we admit, we probably walked by this at least 3 times before we noticed. And he's a polarizing figure (both when he was alive and now). But you can't deny the impact he's had, and even if his house isn't much to look at, it's still something to acknowledge.
In centro storico, the distances between buildings are so tight that many couldn't fit a normal sized car. The streets wind, never having a grid layout. There's often scaffolding in place, fixing the exteriors of buildings hundreds of years old. But wait, isn't that trattoria with the nonna that hand crafts her pasta right around the corner? Or that chocolate shop that has been around since 1866? Or the place famous for their focaccia and farinata that opened its doors in 1889? All this, and a ton more, you'll find as you're wandering around.
Riding the funicular
There is a surprising amount of elevation throughout Genoa, and to help make the trips up and down easier, there are funiculars every so often. These free 'escalators' run you up and down the hills, often for free. Our favorite one was a combination of a train and an escalator - quite the experience!
The main shopping drag of the city. You'll get the typical clothing shops while walking under grandiose porticos in some of the best architecture that Genoa has to offer. You'll also have the bustle of car, bus and moped traffic, reminding you are in a large modern city, not back in time hundreds of years.
Via XX Settembre
Getting lost in the caruggi
This pedestrian promenade stretches from storico centro all the way to Boccadasse (pictured). Right against the Ligurian Sea, it has breathtaking views - of the ships in the sea, the residential buildings of the Foce and Albaro neighborhoods, and the people traipsing back and forth.
Corso Italia (aka Lungomare)
what to drink in Genoa
what to drink in Genoa
This is an under the radar white that has great flavor and is relatively inexpensive for its quality. The pigato grape is a relative of the Vermentino grape, and vinophiles will be able to notice slight differences of characteristics between the two.
pigato wine
Made from one grape, the rossese (also known as Tibouren in French wine), this local wine is light and very easy to drink. Goes well with anything on the Ligurian menu.
rossesse di dolceacqua wine
what to try in Genoa
what to try in Genoa
The pesto in Genoa alone makes the trip worthwhile. There’s plenty of debate over whether garlic should be included, and while both versions are easy to find, we side with the garlic camp. Honestly, we don’t think it’s possible to overindulge in pesto while you’re in Liguria—it’s just that good.
pesto genovese
Such a simple food, yet incredibly difficult to perfect outside of this region. Is it something in the water? The salt? The olive oil? Whatever the secret, it’s often imitated around the world but never tastes quite as good as it does here. You’ll find it on nearly every street corner, with locals passionately defending their favorite spot. There’s just something about that perfect balance of crunchy and chewy that keeps us coming back.
focaccia alla genovese
The renowned pasta from Liguria, trofie, pairs perfectly with pesto. It is a small, hand rolled pasta that is easily eaten with a fork. Only the 2 elements make up this dish, and none other are needed. A perfect start to a wonderful local meal.
trofie al pesto
The most well known is called the Torta Pasqualina (easter tart), however this is a plethora of different recipes that exist. They are a wonderful comfort food. Our favorites include ones that include artichoke or zucchini.
At one point in the 1800s, there were many, many chocolate shops in centro storico. Slowly, they have died out over the years and very few remain today. One of them is Viganotti Romeo - and everything they do is divine. They operate a caffetteria/pasticceria, a gelateria, and a chocolate shop (which is located down a nondescript alley). Go there for breakfast and have an espresso and a piece of focaccia (or something sweet!). Go there for gelato in the afternoon. Go there for after dinner dolce. Just. Go. There.
vegetable "pies"
everything from viganotti romeo
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