italy (liguria)
Genoa (Genova) has a reputation for being "gritty". Yes, there's graffiti all over the buildings, and yes, the old town's narrow streets are dark and damp and can feel deserted at times. But aside from the city lacking a little curb appeal, these "flaws" are also what make it beautiful. Step outside in the evening hours and the city comes to life. Not to mention - venture outside of the old port and old town and the city shines even more. You'll even find parks and tree-lined streets in the surrounding neighborhoods!
Although this city may not be on everyone's bucket list, their loss is your gain. Let's start with the weather - it's some of the best we've ever experienced in Italy. We've heard of the famed "Mediterranean" climate, but for a while thought it was a myth. A lot of places in Italy get hot. And if they aren't hot, they have a particularly cold winter. Some places unfortunately have both. Genoa has neither. Year round the climate is mild, hardly experiencing freezes and rarely getting about 90 degrees Fahrenheit. Let's talk about the food - the focaccia and pesto are spectacular. But it doesn't just stop there! The fresh seafood and perfectly cooked pasta are to die for. There's also less English spoken here and fewer translations offered on menus than what you would see in other major tourist cities (that's a plus in our book!).
So if you can handle a little grittiness and exchange it for fewer English speaking visitors, amazing weather, and to-die-for food, Genoa is a place that should be on your list.
genoa/genova
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where to eat
This might have been our favorite experience in Genova. Chef Ruggero Maria Di Luca's creations are fantastic and the service is impeccable. The chef started us off with a complimentary flute of sparkling wine and 3 small bites, inspired by the region, that he comes out to explain. If you're feeling bold for a pasta, try the sea urchin. It's going to be something a bit different and not for everyone's taste profile. The fregolotto was excellent. The favorite of the night was the stuffed squid - delicious. Finally, save room for the chocolate mousse and the salted caramel panna cotta. A great dinner all around!
This might have been our favorite experience in Genova. Chef Ruggero Maria Di Luca's creations are fantastic and the service is impeccable. The chef started us off with a complimentary flute of sparkling wine and 3 small bites, inspired by the region, that he comes out to explain. If you're feeling bold for a pasta, try the sea urchin. It's going to be something a bit different and not for everyone's taste profile. The fregolotto was excellent. The favorite of the night was the stuffed squid - delicious. Finally, save room for the chocolate mousse and the salted caramel panna cotta. A great dinner all around!
This might have been our favorite experience in Genova. Chef Ruggero Maria Di Luca's creations are fantastic and the service is impeccable. The chef started us off with a complimentary flute of sparkling wine and 3 small bites, inspired by the region, that he comes out to explain. If you're feeling bold for a pasta, try the sea urchin. It's going to be something a bit different and not for everyone's taste profile. The fregolotto was excellent. The favorite of the night was the stuffed squid - delicious. Finally, save room for the chocolate mousse and the salted caramel panna cotta. A great dinner all around!
This might have been our favorite experience in Genova. Chef Ruggero Maria Di Luca's creations are fantastic and the service is impeccable. The chef started us off with a complimentary flute of sparkling wine and 3 small bites, inspired by the region, that he comes out to explain. If you're feeling bold for a pasta, try the sea urchin. It's going to be something a bit different and not for everyone's taste profile. The fregolotto was excellent. The favorite of the night was the stuffed squid - delicious. Finally, save room for the chocolate mousse and the salted caramel panna cotta. A great dinner all around!
This might have been our favorite experience in Genova. Chef Ruggero Maria Di Luca's creations are fantastic and the service is impeccable. The chef started us off with a complimentary flute of sparkling wine and 3 small bites, inspired by the region, that he comes out to explain. If you're feeling bold for a pasta, try the sea urchin. It's going to be something a bit different and not for everyone's taste profile. The fregolotto was excellent. The favorite of the night was the stuffed squid - delicious. Finally, save room for the chocolate mousse and the salted caramel panna cotta. A great dinner all around!
This might have been our favorite experience in Genova. Chef Ruggero Maria Di Luca's creations are fantastic and the service is impeccable. The chef started us off with a complimentary flute of sparkling wine and 3 small bites, inspired by the region, that he comes out to explain. If you're feeling bold for a pasta, try the sea urchin. It's going to be something a bit different and not for everyone's taste profile. The fregolotto was excellent. The favorite of the night was the stuffed squid - delicious. Finally, save room for the chocolate mousse and the salted caramel panna cotta. A great dinner all around!
This might have been our favorite experience in Genova. Chef Ruggero Maria Di Luca's creations are fantastic and the service is impeccable. The chef started us off with a complimentary flute of sparkling wine and 3 small bites, inspired by the region, that he comes out to explain. If you're feeling bold for a pasta, try the sea urchin. It's going to be something a bit different and not for everyone's taste profile. The fregolotto was excellent. The favorite of the night was the stuffed squid - delicious. Finally, save room for the chocolate mousse and the salted caramel panna cotta. A great dinner all around!
This might have been our favorite experience in Genova. Chef Ruggero Maria Di Luca's creations are fantastic and the service is impeccable. The chef started us off with a complimentary flute of sparkling wine and 3 small bites, inspired by the region, that he comes out to explain. If you're feeling bold for a pasta, try the sea urchin. It's going to be something a bit different and not for everyone's taste profile. The fregolotto was excellent. The favorite of the night was the stuffed squid - delicious. Finally, save room for the chocolate mousse and the salted caramel panna cotta. A great dinner all around!
We found this little restaurant just wandering the caruggi in centro storico. Chef Davide greeted us warmly and took care of us throughout our meal. His menu is updated regularly, and he has a passion towards his food that comes through. If you're looking for something just beyond the traditional Genovese cuisine, this is your place! Start with the octopus from the antipasti, then our favorites are any of his pastas that have seafood. He has a dessert with gianduja that was also very tasty!
We found this little restaurant just wandering the caruggi in centro storico. Chef Davide greeted us warmly and took care of us throughout our meal. His menu is updated regularly, and he has a passion towards his food that comes through. If you're looking for something just beyond the traditional Genovese cuisine, this is your place! Start with the octopus from the antipasti, then our favorites are any of his pastas that have seafood. He has a dessert with gianduja that was also very tasty!
cucina valoria
We found this little restaurant just wandering the caruggi in centro storico. Chef Davide greeted us warmly and took care of us throughout our meal. His menu is updated regularly, and he has a passion towards his food that comes through. If you're looking for something just beyond the traditional Genovese cuisine, this is your place! Start with the octopus from the antipasti, then our favorites are any of his pastas that have seafood. He has a dessert with gianduja that was also very tasty!
We found this little restaurant just wandering the caruggi in centro storico. Chef Davide greeted us warmly and took care of us throughout our meal. His menu is updated regularly, and he has a passion towards his food that comes through. If you're looking for something just beyond the traditional Genovese cuisine, this is your place! Start with the octopus from the antipasti, then our favorites are any of his pastas that have seafood. He has a dessert with gianduja that was also very tasty!
We found this little restaurant just wandering the caruggi in centro storico. Chef Davide greeted us warmly and took care of us throughout our meal. His menu is updated regularly, and he has a passion towards his food that comes through. If you're looking for something just beyond the traditional Genovese cuisine, this is your place! Start with the octopus from the antipasti, then our favorites are any of his pastas that have seafood. He has a dessert with gianduja that was also very tasty!
We found this little restaurant just wandering the caruggi in centro storico. Chef Davide greeted us warmly and took care of us throughout our meal. His menu is updated regularly, and he has a passion towards his food that comes through. If you're looking for something just beyond the traditional Genovese cuisine, this is your place! Start with the octopus from the antipasti, then our favorites are any of his pastas that have seafood. He has a dessert with gianduja that was also very tasty!
Tucked down a pedestrian alley off of Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Trattoria Rosmarino prepares classic Ligurian food, using top quality ingredients. The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor settings - you can choose the comfortable space inside with the daily specials listed on chalkboards throughout, or sit with a view of the fountain in Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari. Their pastas often have the local pesto or walnut sauces (pansotti salsa di noci); their seafood is fresh (when we went, we were following the tuna delivery of the day into the restaurant). And save room for pine nut cake with ice cream!
Tucked down a pedestrian alley off of Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Trattoria Rosmarino prepares classic Ligurian food, using top quality ingredients. The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor settings - you can choose the comfortable space inside with the daily specials listed on chalkboards throughout, or sit with a view of the fountain in Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari. Their pastas often have the local pesto or walnut sauces (pansotti salsa di noci); their seafood is fresh (when we went, we were following the tuna delivery of the day into the restaurant). And save room for pine nut cake with ice cream!
Tucked down a pedestrian alley off of Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Trattoria Rosmarino prepares classic Ligurian food, using top quality ingredients. The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor settings - you can choose the comfortable space inside with the daily specials listed on chalkboards throughout, or sit with a view of the fountain in Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari. Their pastas often have the local pesto or walnut sauces (pansotti salsa di noci); their seafood is fresh (when we went, we were following the tuna delivery of the day into the restaurant). And save room for pine nut cake with ice cream!
Tucked down a pedestrian alley off of Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Trattoria Rosmarino prepares classic Ligurian food, using top quality ingredients. The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor settings - you can choose the comfortable space inside with the daily specials listed on chalkboards throughout, or sit with a view of the fountain in Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari. Their pastas often have the local pesto or walnut sauces (pansotti salsa di noci); their seafood is fresh (when we went, we were following the tuna delivery of the day into the restaurant). And save room for pine nut cake with ice cream!
Tucked down a pedestrian alley off of Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Trattoria Rosmarino prepares classic Ligurian food, using top quality ingredients. The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor settings - you can choose the comfortable space inside with the daily specials listed on chalkboards throughout, or sit with a view of the fountain in Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari. Their pastas often have the local pesto or walnut sauces (pansotti salsa di noci); their seafood is fresh (when we went, we were following the tuna delivery of the day into the restaurant). And save room for pine nut cake with ice cream!
Tucked down a pedestrian alley off of Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Trattoria Rosmarino prepares classic Ligurian food, using top quality ingredients. The restaurant has both indoor and outdoor settings - you can choose the comfortable space inside with the daily specials listed on chalkboards throughout, or sit with a view of the fountain in Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari. Their pastas often have the local pesto or walnut sauces (pansotti salsa di noci); their seafood is fresh (when we went, we were following the tuna delivery of the day into the restaurant). And save room for pine nut cake with ice cream!
A cozy spot in centro storico, the owners Sara and Roberta do a blend of the traditional Genovese cuisine with international flair. When we were there, there were sprinklings of Vietmanese on the menu, with an amazing Banh Xeo that we had as a starter. For something traditional, the spaghetti with clams was one of our favorite pastas on the trip. And we loved the 'Sicily' dessert - basically a deconstructed cannolo with multiple flavors of riccota, pistachio, and passion fruit coming through.
A cozy spot in centro storico, the owners Sara and Roberta do a blend of the traditional Genovese cuisine with international flair. When we were there, there were sprinklings of Vietmanese on the menu, with an amazing Banh Xeo that we had as a starter. For something traditional, the spaghetti with clams was one of our favorite pastas on the trip. And we loved the 'Sicily' dessert - basically a deconstructed cannolo with multiple flavors of riccota, pistachio, and passion fruit coming through.
A cozy spot in centro storico, the owners Sara and Roberta do a blend of the traditional Genovese cuisine with international flair. When we were there, there were sprinklings of Vietmanese on the menu, with an amazing Banh Xeo that we had as a starter. For something traditional, the spaghetti with clams was one of our favorite pastas on the trip. And we loved the 'Sicily' dessert - basically a deconstructed cannolo with multiple flavors of riccota, pistachio, and passion fruit coming through.
A cozy spot in centro storico, the owners Sara and Roberta do a blend of the traditional Genovese cuisine with international flair. When we were there, there were sprinklings of Vietmanese on the menu, with an amazing Banh Xeo that we had as a starter. For something traditional, the spaghetti with clams was one of our favorite pastas on the trip. And we loved the 'Sicily' dessert - basically a deconstructed cannolo with multiple flavors of riccota, pistachio, and passion fruit coming through.
A cozy spot in centro storico, the owners Sara and Roberta do a blend of the traditional Genovese cuisine with international flair. When we were there, there were sprinklings of Vietmanese on the menu, with an amazing Banh Xeo that we had as a starter. For something traditional, the spaghetti with clams was one of our favorite pastas on the trip. And we loved the 'Sicily' dessert - basically a deconstructed cannolo with multiple flavors of riccota, pistachio, and passion fruit coming through.
A cozy spot in centro storico, the owners Sara and Roberta do a blend of the traditional Genovese cuisine with international flair. When we were there, there were sprinklings of Vietmanese on the menu, with an amazing Banh Xeo that we had as a starter. For something traditional, the spaghetti with clams was one of our favorite pastas on the trip. And we loved the 'Sicily' dessert - basically a deconstructed cannolo with multiple flavors of riccota, pistachio, and passion fruit coming through.
A cozy spot in centro storico, the owners Sara and Roberta do a blend of the traditional Genovese cuisine with international flair. When we were there, there were sprinklings of Vietmanese on the menu, with an amazing Banh Xeo that we had as a starter. For something traditional, the spaghetti with clams was one of our favorite pastas on the trip. And we loved the 'Sicily' dessert - basically a deconstructed cannolo with multiple flavors of riccota, pistachio, and passion fruit coming through.
Located near Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Hostaria Ducale is small and intimate. The menu offers a choice to order a la carte or choose from a selection of tasting menus. Whichever you decide, you won't be disappointed! Favorites include a seafood risotto and a very creative dish that reminded us of sponge cake and resembled bread and a yellow icing with seeds that looked like butter. At first we even thought they had given us another bread course by mistake! They called the dish scarpetta (literal translation is little shoe) which in Italy means to use bread to clean your plate (think scraping your plate of the last pasta sauce, etc. as to not leave any goodness behind!). It was delicious and a very clever palate cleanser to transition us into the on-menu inventive desserts that will end the night on a high note. Reservations required.
Located near Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Hostaria Ducale is small and intimate. The menu offers a choice to order a la carte or choose from a selection of tasting menus. Whichever you decide, you won't be disappointed! Favorites include a seafood risotto and a very creative dish that reminded us of sponge cake and resembled bread and a yellow icing with seeds that looked like butter. At first we even thought they had given us another bread course by mistake! They called the dish scarpetta (literal translation is little shoe) which in Italy means to use bread to clean your plate (think scraping your plate of the last pasta sauce, etc. as to not leave any goodness behind!). It was delicious and a very clever palate cleanser to transition us into the on-menu inventive desserts that will end the night on a high note. Reservations required.
Located near Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Hostaria Ducale is small and intimate. The menu offers a choice to order a la carte or choose from a selection of tasting menus. Whichever you decide, you won't be disappointed! Favorites include a seafood risotto and a very creative dish that reminded us of sponge cake and resembled bread and a yellow icing with seeds that looked like butter. At first we even thought they had given us another bread course by mistake! They called the dish scarpetta (literal translation is little shoe) which in Italy means to use bread to clean your plate (think scraping your plate of the last pasta sauce, etc. as to not leave any goodness behind!). It was delicious and a very clever palate cleanser to transition us into the on-menu inventive desserts that will end the night on a high note. Reservations required.
Located near Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Hostaria Ducale is small and intimate. The menu offers a choice to order a la carte or choose from a selection of tasting menus. Whichever you decide, you won't be disappointed! Favorites include a seafood risotto and a very creative dish that reminded us of sponge cake and resembled bread and a yellow icing with seeds that looked like butter. At first we even thought they had given us another bread course by mistake! They called the dish scarpetta (literal translation is little shoe) which in Italy means to use bread to clean your plate (think scraping your plate of the last pasta sauce, etc. as to not leave any goodness behind!). It was delicious and a very clever palate cleanser to transition us into the on-menu inventive desserts that will end the night on a high note. Reservations required.
Located near Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Hostaria Ducale is small and intimate. The menu offers a choice to order a la carte or choose from a selection of tasting menus. Whichever you decide, you won't be disappointed! Favorites include a seafood risotto and a very creative dish that reminded us of sponge cake and resembled bread and a yellow icing with seeds that looked like butter. At first we even thought they had given us another bread course by mistake! They called the dish scarpetta (literal translation is little shoe) which in Italy means to use bread to clean your plate (think scraping your plate of the last pasta sauce, etc. as to not leave any goodness behind!). It was delicious and a very clever palate cleanser to transition us into the on-menu inventive desserts that will end the night on a high note. Reservations required.
Located near Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Hostaria Ducale is small and intimate. The menu offers a choice to order a la carte or choose from a selection of tasting menus. Whichever you decide, you won't be disappointed! Favorites include a seafood risotto and a very creative dish that reminded us of sponge cake and resembled bread and a yellow icing with seeds that looked like butter. At first we even thought they had given us another bread course by mistake! They called the dish scarpetta (literal translation is little shoe) which in Italy means to use bread to clean your plate (think scraping your plate of the last pasta sauce, etc. as to not leave any goodness behind!). It was delicious and a very clever palate cleanser to transition us into the on-menu inventive desserts that will end the night on a high note. Reservations required.
Located near Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Hostaria Ducale is small and intimate. The menu offers a choice to order a la carte or choose from a selection of tasting menus. Whichever you decide, you won't be disappointed! Favorites include a seafood risotto and a very creative dish that reminded us of sponge cake and resembled bread and a yellow icing with seeds that looked like butter. At first we even thought they had given us another bread course by mistake! They called the dish scarpetta (literal translation is little shoe) which in Italy means to use bread to clean your plate (think scraping your plate of the last pasta sauce, etc. as to not leave any goodness behind!). It was delicious and a very clever palate cleanser to transition us into the on-menu inventive desserts that will end the night on a high note. Reservations required.
Located near Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Hostaria Ducale is small and intimate. The menu offers a choice to order a la carte or choose from a selection of tasting menus. Whichever you decide, you won't be disappointed! Favorites include a seafood risotto and a very creative dish that reminded us of sponge cake and resembled bread and a yellow icing with seeds that looked like butter. At first we even thought they had given us another bread course by mistake! They called the dish scarpetta (literal translation is little shoe) which in Italy means to use bread to clean your plate (think scraping your plate of the last pasta sauce, etc. as to not leave any goodness behind!). It was delicious and a very clever palate cleanser to transition us into the on-menu inventive desserts that will end the night on a high note. Reservations required.
Located near Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Hostaria Ducale is small and intimate. The menu offers a choice to order a la carte or choose from a selection of tasting menus. Whichever you decide, you won't be disappointed! Favorites include a seafood risotto and a very creative dish that reminded us of sponge cake and resembled bread and a yellow icing with seeds that looked like butter. At first we even thought they had given us another bread course by mistake! They called the dish scarpetta (literal translation is little shoe) which in Italy means to use bread to clean your plate (think scraping your plate of the last pasta sauce, etc. as to not leave any goodness behind!). It was delicious and a very clever palate cleanser to transition us into the on-menu inventive desserts that will end the night on a high note. Reservations required.
Located near Piazza Raffaele de Ferrari, Hostaria Ducale is small and intimate. The menu offers a choice to order a la carte or choose from a selection of tasting menus. Whichever you decide, you won't be disappointed! Favorites include a seafood risotto and a very creative dish that reminded us of sponge cake and resembled bread and a yellow icing with seeds that looked like butter. At first we even thought they had given us another bread course by mistake! They called the dish scarpetta (literal translation is little shoe) which in Italy means to use bread to clean your plate (think scraping your plate of the last pasta sauce, etc. as to not leave any goodness behind!). It was delicious and a very clever palate cleanser to transition us into the on-menu inventive desserts that will end the night on a high note. Reservations required.
This romantic restaurant has intimate nooks and crannies for a semi-private dining experience for all of its guests. It also offers outdoor seating when the weather permits. They serve classic Ligurian dishes in a modern, up leveled fashion. We will say - this was some of the BEST bread we had all trip! It was absolutely incredible and better than most of the foccacerias we tried. This is not to take away from the actual food itself, which is also very tasty. We recommend the seafood pastas - they are highly inventive, fresh, great quality, and will leave you wanting to keep eating them. If you read into our blog, we tend to stick to antipasti and primi, and don't do a lot of secondi. We recommend getting secondi at Ristorante Santa Teresa - in fact, when we have tried to replicate the pescato del giorno of branzino, olives. and tomates at home because it was so good. Save room to try the non traditional cheese cake with pistachios. It is incredible!
This romantic restaurant has intimate nooks and crannies for a semi-private dining experience for all of its guests. It also offers outdoor seating when the weather permits. They serve classic Ligurian dishes in a modern, up leveled fashion. We will say - this was some of the BEST bread we had all trip! It was absolutely incredible and better than most of the foccacerias we tried. This is not to take away from the actual food itself, which is also very tasty. We recommend the seafood pastas - they are highly inventive, fresh, great quality, and will leave you wanting to keep eating them. If you read into our blog, we tend to stick to antipasti and primi, and don't do a lot of secondi. We recommend getting secondi at Ristorante Santa Teresa - in fact, when we have tried to replicate the pescato del giorno of branzino, olives. and tomates at home because it was so good. Save room to try the non traditional cheese cake with pistachios. It is incredible!
This romantic restaurant has intimate nooks and crannies for a semi-private dining experience for all of its guests. It also offers outdoor seating when the weather permits. They serve classic Ligurian dishes in a modern, up leveled fashion. We will say - this was some of the BEST bread we had all trip! It was absolutely incredible and better than most of the foccacerias we tried. This is not to take away from the actual food itself, which is also very tasty. We recommend the seafood pastas - they are highly inventive, fresh, great quality, and will leave you wanting to keep eating them. If you read into our blog, we tend to stick to antipasti and primi, and don't do a lot of secondi. We recommend getting secondi at Ristorante Santa Teresa - in fact, when we have tried to replicate the pescato del giorno of branzino, olives. and tomates at home because it was so good. Save room to try the non traditional cheese cake with pistachios. It is incredible!
This romantic restaurant has intimate nooks and crannies for a semi-private dining experience for all of its guests. It also offers outdoor seating when the weather permits. They serve classic Ligurian dishes in a modern, up leveled fashion. We will say - this was some of the BEST bread we had all trip! It was absolutely incredible and better than most of the foccacerias we tried. This is not to take away from the actual food itself, which is also very tasty. We recommend the seafood pastas - they are highly inventive, fresh, great quality, and will leave you wanting to keep eating them. If you read into our blog, we tend to stick to antipasti and primi, and don't do a lot of secondi. We recommend getting secondi at Ristorante Santa Teresa - in fact, when we have tried to replicate the pescato del giorno of branzino, olives. and tomates at home because it was so good. Save room to try the non traditional cheese cake with pistachios. It is incredible!
This romantic restaurant has intimate nooks and crannies for a semi-private dining experience for all of its guests. It also offers outdoor seating when the weather permits. They serve classic Ligurian dishes in a modern, up leveled fashion. We will say - this was some of the BEST bread we had all trip! It was absolutely incredible and better than most of the foccacerias we tried. This is not to take away from the actual food itself, which is also very tasty. We recommend the seafood pastas - they are highly inventive, fresh, great quality, and will leave you wanting to keep eating them. If you read into our blog, we tend to stick to antipasti and primi, and don't do a lot of secondi. We recommend getting secondi at Ristorante Santa Teresa - in fact, when we have tried to replicate the pescato del giorno of branzino, olives. and tomates at home because it was so good. Save room to try the non traditional cheese cake with pistachios. It is incredible!
This romantic restaurant has intimate nooks and crannies for a semi-private dining experience for all of its guests. It also offers outdoor seating when the weather permits. They serve classic Ligurian dishes in a modern, up leveled fashion. We will say - this was some of the BEST bread we had all trip! It was absolutely incredible and better than most of the foccacerias we tried. This is not to take away from the actual food itself, which is also very tasty. We recommend the seafood pastas - they are highly inventive, fresh, great quality, and will leave you wanting to keep eating them. If you read into our blog, we tend to stick to antipasti and primi, and don't do a lot of secondi. We recommend getting secondi at Ristorante Santa Teresa - in fact, when we have tried to replicate the pescato del giorno of branzino, olives. and tomates at home because it was so good. Save room to try the non traditional cheese cake with pistachios. It is incredible!
trattoria da maria
This feels like Nonna's kitchen and all the in-laws are over - the food is delicious but it's just a bit crazy. If you're not careful, you could be like Kevin McCallister in Home Alone, and everyone eat your favorite cheese pizza before you (just kidding, they don't run out of food.. I don't think). Bad jokes aside, they make a fantastic trenette pesto col pesto allo genovese and the prices can't be beat. Get here when they open! They don't take reservations and the line will be out the door if you wait too long. You'll find the entrance under the sign up the street!
trattoria da maria
This feels like Nonna's kitchen and all the in-laws are over - the food is delicious but it's just a bit crazy. If you're not careful, you could be like Kevin McCallister in Home Alone, and everyone eat your favorite cheese pizza before you (just kidding, they don't run out of food.. I don't think). Bad jokes aside, they make a fantastic trenette pesto col pesto allo genovese and the prices can't be beat. Get here when they open! They don't take reservations and the line will be out the door if you wait too long. You'll find the entrance under the sign up the street!
trattoria da maria
This feels like Nonna's kitchen and all the in-laws are over - the food is delicious but it's just a bit crazy. If you're not careful, you could be like Kevin McCallister in Home Alone, and everyone eat your favorite cheese pizza before you (just kidding, they don't run out of food.. I don't think). Bad jokes aside, they make a fantastic trenette pesto col pesto allo genovese and the prices can't be beat. Get here when they open! They don't take reservations and the line will be out the door if you wait too long. You'll find the entrance under the sign up the street!
Close to Via Garibaldi (but far enough away to avoid the tourist crowds), this quaint ristorante changes its menu weekly. They have a great selection of Genovese classics along with inventive new dishes. The staff is very friendly and patient - something Genovese in general don't have a reputation for! From the starters to the desserts, everything is made with care. Our favorites include the focaccia (made with tomatoes or onions), the ravioli with beef, the fettuccine with clams, and the rabbit. There are also a wide selection of desserts to finish off your meal.
Close to Via Garibaldi (but far enough away to avoid the tourist crowds), this quaint ristorante changes its menu weekly. They have a great selection of Genovese classics along with inventive new dishes. The staff is very friendly and patient - something Genovese in general don't have a reputation for! From the starters to the desserts, everything is made with care. Our favorites include the focaccia (made with tomatoes or onions), the ravioli with beef, the fettuccine with clams, and the rabbit. There are also a wide selection of desserts to finish off your meal.
Close to Via Garibaldi (but far enough away to avoid the tourist crowds), this quaint ristorante changes its menu weekly. They have a great selection of Genovese classics along with inventive new dishes. The staff is very friendly and patient - something Genovese in general don't have a reputation for! From the starters to the desserts, everything is made with care. Our favorites include the focaccia (made with tomatoes or onions), the ravioli with beef, the fettuccine with clams, and the rabbit. There are also a wide selection of desserts to finish off your meal.
Close to Via Garibaldi (but far enough away to avoid the tourist crowds), this quaint ristorante changes its menu weekly. They have a great selection of Genovese classics along with inventive new dishes. The staff is very friendly and patient - something Genovese in general don't have a reputation for! From the starters to the desserts, everything is made with care. Our favorites include the focaccia (made with tomatoes or onions), the ravioli with beef, the fettuccine with clams, and the rabbit. There are also a wide selection of desserts to finish off your meal.
Blink and you'll miss this spot! In Piazzetta Chighizola, it's tucked behind the gelato shop next door. If you're not careful, you might even sit at the wrong table. You'll want to choose Cantine di Colombo. We stumbled across this place walking towards the general vicinity of where we had a dinner reservation. The beverages and snacks provided were made very well and with high quality ingredients (unlike many places that offer aperitivo). They have another location in the city so make sure you choose the correct address. And if you are in the mood for a bottle of wine to go, step inside their shop while you're at it!
Blink and you'll miss this spot! In Piazzetta Chighizola, it's tucked behind the gelato shop next door. If you're not careful, you might even sit at the wrong table. You'll want to choose Cantine di Colombo. We stumbled across this place walking towards the general vicinity of where we had a dinner reservation. The beverages and snacks provided were made very well and with high quality ingredients (unlike many places that offer aperitivo). They have another location in the city so make sure you choose the correct address. And if you are in the mood for a bottle of wine to go, step inside their shop while you're at it!
Blink and you'll miss this spot! In Piazzetta Chighizola, it's tucked behind the gelato shop next door. If you're not careful, you might even sit at the wrong table. You'll want to choose Cantine di Colombo. We stumbled across this place walking towards the general vicinity of where we had a dinner reservation. The beverages and snacks provided were made very well and with high quality ingredients (unlike many places that offer aperitivo). They have another location in the city so make sure you choose the correct address. And if you are in the mood for a bottle of wine to go, step inside their shop while you're at it!
what to drink
what to drink
This is an under the radar white that has great flavor and is relatively inexpensive for its quality. The pigato grape is a relative of the Vermentino grape, and vinophiles will be able to notice slight differences of characteristics between the two.
pigato wine
Made from one grape, the rossese (also known as Tibouren in French wine), this local wine is light and very easy to drink. Goes well with anything on the Ligurian menu.
rossesse di dolceacqua wine
what to try
what to try
The pesto from Genoa makes the trip worth it all by itself. There are strong opinions about whether it should include garlic as an ingredient; while both are readily available, I side with including garlic. I don't think it's possible to over indulge on pesto while you're in Liguria.
pesto genovese
Such a simple food, but very hard to get it to be perfect outside of this region. Is there something in the water? Or maybe the salt or olive oil? Whatever it is, it's often copied throughout the world, with never tasting as good as here. It's available on almost every street corner, and everyone swears by their favorite. Something about the crunchy and chewy combination takes me back..
focaccia alla genovese
The renowned pasta from Liguria, trofie, pairs perfectly with pesto. It is a small, hand rolled pasta that is easily eaten with a fork. Only the 2 elements make up this dish, and none other are needed. A perfect start to a wonderful local meal.
trofie al pesto
The most well known is call the Torta Pasqualina (easter tart), however this is a plethora of different recipes that exist. They are a wonderful comfort food. Our favorites include ones that include artichoke or zucchini.
The best Pesto Genovese recipes use olive oil made from taggiasca olives. You should try the olives in their natural state while you are here because they are delicious!
At one point in the 1800s, there were many, many chocolate shops in centro storico. Slowly, they have died out over the years and very few remain today. One of them is Viganotti Romeo - and everything they do is divine. They operate a caffetteria/pasticceria. a gelateria, and a chocolate shop (which is located down a nondescript alley). Go there for breakfast and have an espresso and a piece of focaccia (or something sweet!). Go there for gelato in the afternoon. Go there for after dinner dolce. Just. Go. There. Trust us - it's a surprise it's not more well-known in English speaking travel guides about Genoa!
vegetable "pies"
Taggiasca olives
everything from viganotti romeo
what to see
what to see
We are sure you've seen this fountain on Instagram, if you've been looking at Genoa. All the online photos don't diminish the experience in person. The buildings and porticos that surround it make for a great background for all those urban photos of Genoa you're looking for.
Piazza Raffaele De Ferrari
Acquario di Genova
mercato orientale
The largest aquarium in Italy! Home to dolphins, manatees, seals, penguins, sharks and more, this aquarium has a primary focus on the Mediterranean Sea, but doesn't stop there. It also has sections on the Antarctic and locations near the equator. It's a fun, educational experience for the whole family and is worth a visit!
Located on Via XX Settembre, the market has a great selection of vendors with fresh produce, baked goods, meats, cheeses, flowers, and other local items. There's also a food court in the back that's great for a quick snack or meal. Come here to pick up ingredients for a picnic or for a meal if you're cooking in. Also, this is a great place to practice your Italian with the vendors!
In addition to the aquarium, there are other sightseeing activities along the port including Galata Museo del Mare (museum of the sea), the Bigo (a lift that takes you up for panoramic views), and an Eataly if you want to grab a quick bite or shop for some groceries. Further down, there's the Porto Antico district with a restaurant row that you have a view of all the monstrous yachts that come to port in Genoa.
old harbour
Christopher Columbus' house
Okay, we admit, we probably walked by this at least 3 times before we noticed. And he's a polarizing figure (both when he was alive and now). But you can't deny the impact he's had, and even if his house isn't much to look at, it's still something to acknowledge.
In centro storico, the distances between buildings are so tight that many couldn't fit a normal sized car. The streets wind, never having a grid layout. There's often scaffolding in place, fixing the exteriors of buildings hundreds of years old. But wait, isn't that trattoria with the nonna that hand crafts her pasta right around the corner? Or that chocolate shop that has been around since 1866? Or the place famous for their focaccia and farinata that opened its doors in 1889? All this, and a ton more, you'll find as you're wandering around.
Riding the funiculars
There is a surprisely amount of elevation throughout Genoa, and to help make the trips up and down easier, there are funiculars every so often. These free 'escalators' run you up and down the hills, often for free. Our favorite one was a combination of a train and an escalator - quite the experience!
The main shopping drag of the city. You'll get the typical clothing shops while walking under grandiose porticos in some of the best architecture that Genoa has to offer. You'll also have the bustle of car, bus and moped traffic, reminding you are in a large modern city, not back in time hundreds of years.
Via XX Settembre
Getting lost in the caruggi
This pedestrian promenade stretches from storico centro all the way to Boccadasse (pictured). Right against the Ligurian Sea, it has breathtaking views - of the ships in the sea, the residential buildings of the Foce and Albaro neighborhoods, and the people traipsing back and forth.
Corso Italia (aka Lungomare)
The Arena is famous, and rightfully so. It was built in 30 A.D. and is still in use today. It’s extremely impressive and really cool to have right in the middle of town. If you’re able, check out a live show that they have in the warmer months of the year.
Sneak a peek at Juliet's Balcony early in the morning before anyone is there. A bit of a tourist’s delight, the balcony itself wasn’t even constructed until the 20th century. Admittedly, this is not something up our alley, but this is a main draw for the city. Go early in the morning to avoid the crowds. Check the times as the gate to the courtyard is locked during non-operating hours.
A bit outside of the city center (but not too bad for those willing to get in a good walk!), this garden built in the Renaissance Era has the best vistas of Verona. It’s worth the climb up the terraces to get an incredible view of the city!
the arena
name
name
So nice we ate there twice! Vicolo Battisti offers an entire menu dedicated to pizza and the other to Piemonte specialities. We opted to visit twice so that we could try both. The weather was delightful so we dined alfresco where they line the street with tables. The staff is young, hip, and helpful. The food was excellent. Reservations recommended.
So nice we ate there twice! Vicolo Battisti offers an entire menu dedicated to pizza and the other to Piemonte specialities. We opted to visit twice so that we could try both. The weather was delightful so we dined alfresco where they line the street with tables. The staff is young, hip, and helpful. The food was excellent. Reservations recommended.
hotel name
where to stay
where to stay
If you are limited on time in Genoa, you may opt to stay at a hotel for convenience. Although not in centro storico, the Hotel Bristol Palace and the NH Genova Centro were both within walking distance to everything. While we did not step inside the hotels, we did walk by both several times so I would recommend staying somewhere in the vicinity of either of them.
Book Hotel Bristol Palace via Hotels.com
Book Hotel Bristol Palace via Booking.com
centro storico
helpful resources
helpful
resources
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