We first visited Bologna, Italy in October 2021. At that time, it was our first international trip since the pandemic began—and our first return to Italy since our honeymoon in 2017. Masks and vaccination cards were still required, and travel felt both exciting and uncertain.
Because it was our first time exploring the region of Emilia-Romagna, we planned a packed itinerary: 2 nights in Parma, 2 nights in Modena, and 2 nights in Bologna. Since we were flying in and out of Milan, we also spent a few nights there. With such a tight schedule, that meant only a couple of nights to see (and eat!) everything in Bologna.
We arrived on a Saturday afternoon and made our way through the busy streets to our apartment near Piazza Maggiore. To this day, we’re not sure what was happening that weekend, but the city was overflowing with people. While it didn’t stop us from enjoying our time, our timing did. Nearly all of the restaurants, food markets, and shops we wanted to visit were closed on Sunday. With such limited time, we knew we’d have to return to Bologna one day to truly experience it at a slower pace.
And so we returned. This time, our trip was completely different. We stayed in Bologna for three weeks, which gave us the chance to explore at a slower pace, try countless restaurants, and wander through the city without rushing.
The streets were lively but not overwhelming, and we chose an apartment outside the main city center, near Giardini Margherita. This beautiful city park was always full of families, runners, cyclists, and people simply enjoying the outdoors—a reminder of how local life flows in Bologna beyond the tourist core.
Over three weeks, we ate some incredible meals and a few less-than-memorable ones (par for the course in any city!). We tried new regional pastas, sampled wines of Emilia-Romagna, and even practiced speaking Italian whenever we could. From hearty bowls of tagliatelle al ragù to local Lambrusco, every meal added to our love for this city.
After this trip, I can say without hesitation that Bologna has completely won us over. Its mix of history, food culture, and relaxed pace makes it one of the best cities in Italy to slow down and enjoy. I can’t wait to return.
Thinking of visiting Bologna? Check out our Bologna City Guide for recommendations on what to see, where to eat, and how to experience this food capital of Italy.