ITALY (emilia-romagna)

Modena

Modena is in the heart of the Emilia-Romagna region, known as the breadbasket of Italy. On the main route between Milan and Bologna, it's easily accessible from either by train or car. We highly recommend traveling by train whenever possible in Italy - they are so easy to use, cheap, and stress-free. With Florence almost due south, Genoa almost due west, and Venice within range to the northeast, Modena’s north central location means it can be part of a diverse set of itineraries. With a population under 200,000, it maintains a small town appeal while having some amenities the bigger cities offer. 

Modena is known for its fast cars and its slow food. Modena is home to the headquarters of Ferrari (Enzo Ferrari was born in Modena), Lamborghini, and other luxury automobile manufacturers. Formula 1 has also resumed an annual race in the town of Imola nearby. Many car enthusiasts will make the pilgrimage to the region. But of course, we go for the food. Modena is famous for its Traditional Balsamic Vinegar (not to be confused with balsamic vinegar of Modena), which follows strict guidelines like many of the wines and olive oils produced throughout Italy. Traditional Balsamic Vinegar is expensive - and we think it’s worth it! Speaking of food, Modena is also the birthplace of Massimo Bottura, the world-famous restaurateur and the chef patron of Osteria Francescana, renowned as being one of the best restaurants in the world.

where to eat

You will be welcomed in with private access via the Salumeria behind the counter and lead down the hall to the dining room once they close the shop during lunch hours! The pastas were incredible and the atmosphere of the restaurant was private and cozy. Don't forget to order the gnocco fritto. Their freshly cut meats are divine and melt in your mouth! Be sure to make reservations in advance as there are only a few tables in the restaurant. 

You will be welcomed in with private access via the Salumeria behind the counter and lead down the hall to the dining room once they close the shop during lunch hours! The pastas were incredible and the atmosphere of the restaurant was private and cozy. Don't forget to order the gnocco fritto. Their freshly cut meats are divine and melt in your mouth! Be sure to make reservations in advance as there are only a few tables in the restaurant. 

You will be welcomed in with private access via the Salumeria behind the counter and lead down the hall to the dining room once they close the shop during lunch hours! The pastas were incredible and the atmosphere of the restaurant was private and cozy. Don't forget to order the gnocco fritto. Their freshly cut meats are divine and melt in your mouth! Be sure to make reservations in advance as there are only a few tables in the restaurant. 

You will be welcomed in with private access via the Salumeria behind the counter and lead down the hall to the dining room once they close the shop during lunch hours! The pastas were incredible and the atmosphere of the restaurant was private and cozy. Don't forget to order the gnocco fritto. Their freshly cut meats are divine and melt in your mouth! Be sure to make reservations in advance as there are only a few tables in the restaurant. 

You will be welcomed in with private access via the Salumeria behind the counter and lead down the hall to the dining room once they close the shop during lunch hours! The pastas were incredible and the atmosphere of the restaurant was private and cozy. Don't forget to order the gnocco fritto. Their freshly cut meats are divine and melt in your mouth! Be sure to make reservations in advance as there are only a few tables in the restaurant. 

Francescana at Maria Luigia, run by Massimo Bottura, is hosted at Casa Maria Luigia - the Bottura's previous home turned boutique hotel. A short drive outside of Modena's city center, the restaurant offers signature dishes from 3 Michelin Star Osteria Francescana. Each course, explained by Chef Jessica Rosval, offers a backstory for each dish. With the kitchen and plating area as the focal point of the room, guests are able to watch the action as it happens! Massimo and his wife Laura Gilmore both made an appearance to speak with all of the dinner guests. It is one of our favorite and most memorable dining experiences to date. Make reservations in advance as far as possible. They can be very hard to secure!

Francescana at Maria Luigia, run by Massimo Bottura, is hosted at Casa Maria Luigia - the Bottura's previous home turned boutique hotel. A short drive outside of Modena's city center, the restaurant offers signature dishes from 3 Michelin Star Osteria Francescana. Each course, explained by Chef Jessica Rosval, offers a backstory for each dish. With the kitchen and plating area as the focal point of the room, guests are able to watch the action as it happens! Massimo and his wife Laura Gilmore both made an appearance to speak with all of the dinner guests. It is one of our favorite and most memorable dining experiences to date. Make reservations in advance as far as possible. They can be very hard to secure!

Francescana at Maria Luigia, run by Massimo Bottura, is hosted at Casa Maria Luigia - the Bottura's previous home turned boutique hotel. A short drive outside of Modena's city center, the restaurant offers signature dishes from 3 Michelin Star Osteria Francescana. Each course, explained by Chef Jessica Rosval, offers a backstory for each dish. With the kitchen and plating area as the focal point of the room, guests are able to watch the action as it happens! Massimo and his wife Laura Gilmore both made an appearance to speak with all of the dinner guests. It is one of our favorite and most memorable dining experiences to date. Make reservations in advance as far as possible. They can be very hard to secure!

Francescana at Maria Luigia, run by Massimo Bottura, is hosted at Casa Maria Luigia - the Bottura's previous home turned boutique hotel. A short drive outside of Modena's city center, the restaurant offers signature dishes from 3 Michelin Star Osteria Francescana. Each course, explained by Chef Jessica Rosval, offers a backstory for each dish. With the kitchen and plating area as the focal point of the room, guests are able to watch the action as it happens! Massimo and his wife Laura Gilmore both made an appearance to speak with all of the dinner guests. It is one of our favorite and most memorable dining experiences to date. Make reservations in advance as far as possible. They can be very hard to secure!

Francescana at Maria Luigia, run by Massimo Bottura, is hosted at Casa Maria Luigia - the Bottura's previous home turned boutique hotel. A short drive outside of Modena's city center, the restaurant offers signature dishes from 3 Michelin Star Osteria Francescana. Each course, explained by Chef Jessica Rosval, offers a backstory for each dish. With the kitchen and plating area as the focal point of the room, guests are able to watch the action as it happens! Massimo and his wife Laura Gilmore both made an appearance to speak with all of the dinner guests. It is one of our favorite and most memorable dining experiences to date. Make reservations in advance as far as possible. They can be very hard to secure!

Francescana at Maria Luigia, run by Massimo Bottura, is hosted at Casa Maria Luigia - the Bottura's previous home turned boutique hotel. A short drive outside of Modena's city center, the restaurant offers signature dishes from 3 Michelin Star Osteria Francescana. Each course, explained by Chef Jessica Rosval, offers a backstory for each dish. With the kitchen and plating area as the focal point of the room, guests are able to watch the action as it happens! Massimo and his wife Laura Gilmore both made an appearance to speak with all of the dinner guests. It is one of our favorite and most memorable dining experiences to date. Make reservations in advance as far as possible. They can be very hard to secure!

Francescana at Maria Luigia, run by Massimo Bottura, is hosted at Casa Maria Luigia - the Bottura's previous home turned boutique hotel. A short drive outside of Modena's city center, the restaurant offers signature dishes from 3 Michelin Star Osteria Francescana. Each course, explained by Chef Jessica Rosval, offers a backstory for each dish. With the kitchen and plating area as the focal point of the room, guests are able to watch the action as it happens! Massimo and his wife Laura Gilmore both made an appearance to speak with all of the dinner guests. It is one of our favorite and most memorable dining experiences to date. Make reservations in advance as far as possible. They can be very hard to secure!

The sandwiches here are to die for. Look for the daily menu and order the cotechino if it’s available. You won’t regret it! We went here twice during our stay in Modena because we loved it so much. Find them at via Albinelli 13, right outside the Mercato Albinelli.

bar schiavoni

The sandwiches here are to die for. Look for the daily menu and order the cotechino if it’s available. You won’t regret it! We went here twice during our stay in Modena because we loved it so much. Find them at via Albinelli 13, right outside the Mercato Albinelli.

bar schiavoni

The sandwiches here are to die for. Look for the daily menu and order the cotechino if it’s available. You won’t regret it! We went here twice during our stay in Modena because we loved it so much. Find them at via Albinelli 13, right outside the Mercato Albinelli.

bar schiavoni

The sandwiches here are to die for. Look for the daily menu and order the cotechino if it’s available. You won’t regret it! We went here twice during our stay in Modena because we loved it so much. Find them at via Albinelli 13, right outside the Mercato Albinelli.

bar schiavoni

A bit away from the city center, this modern bistrot is part of Massimo Bottura’s Francescana Family brand. Nicknamed “Osteria Francescana’s Little Cousin'', Francheschetta 58 is a contemporary spin on traditional Emilian dishes. While you can order a la carte, the tasting menus here are great: one that introduces you to Modena/Emilia-Romagna, and one that steps outside of the classics. While we’d normally tell you to never order a hamburger in Italy - this is the place you make the exception (it’s no ordinary burger!). It’s a wonderful spot for lunch or dinner! The bright, quirky interior, friendly and attentive staff make the entire experience a hit.

A bit away from the city center, this modern bistrot is part of Massimo Bottura’s Francescana Family brand. Nicknamed “Osteria Francescana’s Little Cousin'', Francheschetta 58 is a contemporary spin on traditional Emilian dishes. While you can order a la carte, the tasting menus here are great: one that introduces you to Modena/Emilia-Romagna, and one that steps outside of the classics. While we’d normally tell you to never order a hamburger in Italy - this is the place you make the exception (it’s no ordinary burger!). It’s a wonderful spot for lunch or dinner! The bright, quirky interior, friendly and attentive staff make the entire experience a hit.

A bit away from the city center, this modern bistrot is part of Massimo Bottura’s Francescana Family brand. Nicknamed “Osteria Francescana’s Little Cousin'', Francheschetta 58 is a contemporary spin on traditional Emilian dishes. While you can order a la carte, the tasting menus here are great: one that introduces you to Modena/Emilia-Romagna, and one that steps outside of the classics. While we’d normally tell you to never order a hamburger in Italy - this is the place you make the exception (it’s no ordinary burger!). It’s a wonderful spot for lunch or dinner! The bright, quirky interior, friendly and attentive staff make the entire experience a hit.

A bit away from the city center, this modern bistrot is part of Massimo Bottura’s Francescana Family brand. Nicknamed “Osteria Francescana’s Little Cousin'', Francheschetta 58 is a contemporary spin on traditional Emilian dishes. While you can order a la carte, the tasting menus here are great: one that introduces you to Modena/Emilia-Romagna, and one that steps outside of the classics. While we’d normally tell you to never order a hamburger in Italy - this is the place you make the exception (it’s no ordinary burger!). It’s a wonderful spot for lunch or dinner! The bright, quirky interior, friendly and attentive staff make the entire experience a hit.

A bit away from the city center, this modern bistrot is part of Massimo Bottura’s Francescana Family brand. Nicknamed “Osteria Francescana’s Little Cousin'', Francheschetta 58 is a contemporary spin on traditional Emilian dishes. While you can order a la carte, the tasting menus here are great: one that introduces you to Modena/Emilia-Romagna, and one that steps outside of the classics. While we’d normally tell you to never order a hamburger in Italy - this is the place you make the exception (it’s no ordinary burger!). It’s a wonderful spot for lunch or dinner! The bright, quirky interior, friendly and attentive staff make the entire experience a hit.

A bit away from the city center, this modern bistrot is part of Massimo Bottura’s Francescana Family brand. Nicknamed “Osteria Francescana’s Little Cousin'', Francheschetta 58 is a contemporary spin on traditional Emilian dishes. While you can order a la carte, the tasting menus here are great: one that introduces you to Modena/Emilia-Romagna, and one that steps outside of the classics. While we’d normally tell you to never order a hamburger in Italy - this is the place you make the exception (it’s no ordinary burger!). It’s a wonderful spot for lunch or dinner! The bright, quirky interior, friendly and attentive staff make the entire experience a hit.

A bit away from the city center, this modern bistrot is part of Massimo Bottura’s Francescana Family brand. Nicknamed “Osteria Francescana’s Little Cousin'', Francheschetta 58 is a contemporary spin on traditional Emilian dishes. While you can order a la carte, the tasting menus here are great: one that introduces you to Modena/Emilia-Romagna, and one that steps outside of the classics. While we’d normally tell you to never order a hamburger in Italy - this is the place you make the exception (it’s no ordinary burger!). It’s a wonderful spot for lunch or dinner! The bright, quirky interior, friendly and attentive staff make the entire experience a hit.

A bit away from the city center, this modern bistrot is part of Massimo Bottura’s Francescana Family brand. Nicknamed “Osteria Francescana’s Little Cousin'', Francheschetta 58 is a contemporary spin on traditional Emilian dishes. While you can order a la carte, the tasting menus here are great: one that introduces you to Modena/Emilia-Romagna, and one that steps outside of the classics. While we’d normally tell you to never order a hamburger in Italy - this is the place you make the exception (it’s no ordinary burger!). It’s a wonderful spot for lunch or dinner! The bright, quirky interior, friendly and attentive staff make the entire experience a hit.

A bit away from the city center, this modern bistrot is part of Massimo Bottura’s Francescana Family brand. Nicknamed “Osteria Francescana’s Little Cousin'', Francheschetta 58 is a contemporary spin on traditional Emilian dishes. While you can order a la carte, the tasting menus here are great: one that introduces you to Modena/Emilia-Romagna, and one that steps outside of the classics. While we’d normally tell you to never order a hamburger in Italy - this is the place you make the exception (it’s no ordinary burger!). It’s a wonderful spot for lunch or dinner! The bright, quirky interior, friendly and attentive staff make the entire experience a hit.

what to drink

what to drink

Have you ever had a sparkling red wine? If not, lambrusco is a great one to start with! Made with the grape of the same name, this is a refreshing wine that goes well with all the local favorites - gnocco fritto, dried meats, aged cheeses - or even just by itself! Lambrusco is known for its slightly sweet and fizzy characteristics. 

lambrusco

what to try

what to try

Italian cured pork sausage cooked at a low heat for several hours. Cotechino has a rich, flavorful taste and a tender, slightly crumbly texture. It is usually simmered or boiled before being sliced and served. We have found it to be particularly delicious on pizza or on a sandwich!

Gnocco fritto is a traditional Italian dish that consists of small squares or diamonds of fried dough. It is typically served hot and accompanied by cured meats, such as prosciutto or salami. Although filling, gnocco fritto makes for a great starter and is one of my favorite things to eat in the region.

When in Modena, opt for a Balsamic Vinegar Tasting and try REAL balsamic vinegar! The flavors and consistency are incredible - nothing like the balsamic vinegar that we are accustomed to in the States. If you are able to, purchase a bottle or two to take home with you! We did a tasting at Acetaia del Cristo, a local producer, which was very helpful and informative. It was a great way to taste some different variations of the balsamic vinegar, each with subtle differences, before purchasing.

traditional balsamic vinegar

This cured meat is so simple, yet so delicious. It literally melts in your mouth. The salt and fat pair perfectly, especially with the above mentioned gnocco fritto. It makes a meat and bread combo that is hard to beat. 

Parmigiano Reggiano, also known as Parmesan cheese, is a high-quality Italian cheese that originates from the regions of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna, and Mantua. Parmigiano Reggiano is aged for a minimum of 12 months, but some varieties are aged for even longer, resulting in a more intense flavor. Massimo Bottura has a special relationship with Parmigian Reggiano - one of his most famous dishes is called the "Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano" (which is divine!). 

prosciutto di modena

parmigiano reggiano

tortelloni

Tortellini in brodo consists of small, stuffed pasta served in a flavorful broth (brodo). Tortellini is typically filled with a mixture of meats, cheese, or vegetables. I'll admit - before trying this, I thought to myself, "what's so special about putting pasta in a broth?" I'm glad I got past my doubts and tried it.. because now I know of another way to have pasta that I adore. The broth brings a different dimension to a dish that I thought was tried and true. It's very comforting and surprisingly addicting. 

tortellini in brodo

Tortelloni is another type of stuffed pasta, often filled with a variety of ingredients including cheese, spinach, ricotta, mushrooms, or meat. Tortelloni are typically served with various sauces, such as cream-based sauces, tomato-based sauces, or simple olive oil and herb combinations. 

gnocco fritto

cotechino

where to stay

where to stay

We stayed at the Tortellino Suite booked via airbnb. It was in a great spot close to the main piazza and attractions, market, and had all the amenities you'd need for a short stay.

near piazza grande

helpful resources

helpful
resources

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