Piazza Maggiore in Bologna, Italy, the epicenter of the city.Piazza Maggiore in Bologna, Italy, the epicenter of the city.

Bologna

Emilia-Romagna

Italy's undisputed food capital - birthplace of ragù Bolognese, tortellini, and incredible food markets. The porticoes are UNESCO World Heritage.

About

Bologna - internationally known, world renowned, and yet, somehow.. dare we say.. underrated and underappreciated? When folks ask the masses where to visit on their first (and often, only) trip to Italy - Rome, Venice, and Florence (justifiably so) will win top billing. Often, it’ll just make the itinerary as a lunch stop, if it’s so lucky. When it’s featured on famous travel shows, it often barely makes a cameo as there are such great places around it to go to (Imola for an F1 race or Modena to make the pilgrimage to Massimo Bottura, just a couple of examples).

We’re here to tell you that Bologna is a wonderful place that shouldn’t be skipped. It is the capital of the Emilia-Romagna region, which is often referred to as the breadbasket of Italy. Known by its three names: la dotta, la rossa, and la grassa (the learned, the red, and the fat), Bologna has layers to uncover. The learned: the oldest university (with 80,000 enrolled!) in the world. The red: multiple meanings, as the city is red as that’s the main color of brick used, but also could signify its historical political leanings, and the famous car brands (Ferrari, Ducati, Lamborghini, and Maserati) that have been founded in or close by. And finally, the fat: so mainly famous foods from here and the region that have worldwide impact: mortadella (everything you know about baloney doesn’t do the original justice), tortellini pasta, tagliatelle al ragù (no, not spaghetti) all hail from Bologna and shouldn’t be missed.

Oh! And Bologna is centrally located with easy connections to Florence, Venice, and Milan. And don’t miss out (really, you can’t, they’re everywhere) on the kilometers of portici - it makes the strolls through Bologna that much more magical. When you make it here, you’ll wonder what took you so long. We definitely did!

AIR, RAIL, AND TRAVEL TIMES

Getting To

Best Airport

Bologna (BLQ)

Estimated Time (Airport → City)

BLQ → Bologna: ~20–35 min (car/taxi) / ~20–35 min (airport transfer)

BLQ → Bologna Centrale via Marconi Express ~7–8 minutes (direct monorail)

Main Train Station

Bologna Centrale

Quick Tip

Bologna Centrale is one of Italy’s best rail hubs for fast city-to-city travel.

Pin on map of Italy showing city's location
Pin on map of Italy showing city's location

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Where to EatBest Gelato SpotsWhat to SeeWhat to TryWhat to DrinkHelpful Resources

Where to Stay in

Centro Storico

We have stayed in different areas of Bologna and loved them all. If you are short on time and enjoy the convenience of being close to all of the main attractions, we recommend staying somewhere in the city center (centro storico). Based on these property locations, here are some of our recommendations that you can't go wrong with:  Art Hotel Commercianti, Art Hotel Orologio, or the Hotel Corona d'Oro.

Where to stay in Bologna, Italy - in the heart of the city
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Where to Eat in

All’Osteria Bottega

This gem of a restaurant could not be better, even if it tried. The quality of the food is unmatched - the salumi, the pasta, the desserts, oh my! The lively and welcoming atmosphere, the great service paired with incredible food, made this one of our favorite restaurants ever. We dined here 3 times in one week so we could try as many dishes as we could - and they were all great (and consistent)! Make sure you call ahead to make a reservation because they book up quickly.

Via Santa Caterina, 51, 40123 Bologna BO, Italy
Via Santa Caterina, 51, 40123 Bologna BO, Italy
Pasta at All'Osteria Bottega in Bologna, Italy
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Scacco Matto agli Orti

You’ll try dishes here that you won’t find anywhere else. This well-designed, inventive restaurant has a highly-attentive and knowledgeable staff that made our dining experience superb! Our favorites included: The gamberi (shrimp) antipasto - served on a bed of asparagus cream with ‘nduja oil. The flavors blended together with just a hint of spice. The calamari “in zimino” - which means braised with chard - antipasto. It has a tiger milk that resembles a Thai curry. The spoja lorda primi - a square, stuffed pasta that had a ton of flavors with small bites of frutti di mare (assorted shellfish). While we ordered a la carte, they also had tasting menus that looked amazing too!

Via della Braina, 9, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
Via della Braina, 9, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
Starter at Ristorante Scacco Matto in Bologna, Italy
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Antica Osteria Le Mura

A table for two by the window, please! We were introduced to salsiccia e gramigna in a crema di parmigiano reggiano (aged 24 months) here. It was to die for. We came back for a second time just so that we could both order this dish and not share! The menu offers a traditional menu and a creative menu (traditional dishes with a twist) along with an extensive wine selection. The selezione di salumi emiliani con crescentine was a stellar starter (prepared for a minimum of 2 people). And if you are a dessert person, opt for the crema catalana alla nocciola - hazelnut creme brulee. The tiramisù and zuppa inglese are also delicious! The staff is welcoming, helpful, and were patient with us while practicing our Italian! A highly recommended stop in Bologna.

Vicolo del Falcone, 13/a, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
Vicolo del Falcone, 13/a, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
Pasta at Antica Osteria le Mura in Bologna, Italy
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Caminetto D’Oro

It’s hard to go wrong here - their pastas? Some of the most picturesque in town, with accompanying tastes you won’t find elsewhere. Their capon broth they use for their tortellini in brodo is divine. Our favorite, though, is their steaks. Often covered with truffle and high end olive oil, and delivered on a searing cast iron plank, you’re going to want to bottle up the leftover oil and take it home. It's so delicious! Save your appetite for this one, as there’s a ton to order and you’ll leave full and satisfied.

Via de' Falegnami, 4/a, 40121 Bologna BO, Italy
Via de' Falegnami, 4/a, 40121 Bologna BO, Italy
Steak with black truffle at Caminetto d'Oro in Bologna, Italy
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Ristorante Cesarina

Located at Piazza Santo Stefano, this is a restaurant that has something for everyone. First, choosing where to sit: if it’s nice weather, why not sit out on the piazza with the ambiance of the beautiful basilica next door and enjoy an alfresco meal? Not a fan of eating outside? The inside is beautifully decorated - trattoria charm, but make it upscale. Next: the menu. It has a ton of choices, but not in an overwhelming way. The antipasti, primi, and secondi sections all have options from a traditional, modern, or seafood option. You could definitely come here a few times and never eat the same thing! We opted for traditional dishes.

Via Santo Stefano, 19/b, 40125 Bologna BO, Italy
Via Santo Stefano, 19/b, 40125 Bologna BO, Italy
Gramigna alla Salsiccia at Ristorante Cesarina in Bologna, Italy
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Sfoglia Rina

What a unique place! Sfoglia Rina is a first come, first served establishment where the lines can get extremely long. The lines remind us of trying to get BBQ in our hometown of Austin, Texas - the lesson is get there early or be prepared to wait. Is it worth the wait? We absolutely think so! Once you get to the front of the line, you'll get escorted to your table where you can look at the chalkboard for the dishes of the day. You can also choose from their other menu offerings. This place is all about their fresh handmade pasta, and you can't go wrong no matter which dish you choose. We recommend saving room for dessert and coffee (they have a moka pot option) as they are delicious and affordable. If you don't want to wait in line, they have a takeaway option as well.

Via Castiglione, 5/b, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
Via Castiglione, 5/b, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
Pasta at Sfoglia Rina in Bologna, Italy
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L’Emporio

L’Emporio uses the highest ingredients for its meat, cheeses, and breads, mostly procured from producers of the region and/or local to Italy. We recommend ordering the tagliere - a large selection of artisanal meats and cheeses. While it comes with bread, don't forget to add some tigelle (a typical round bread of the region), as they are absolutely delicious - the best we've tried. Pair this with a couple drinks of your choice and you’ve got the perfect aperitivo, lunch, or light dinner! They also have a large selection of wine and sandwiches which look equally as amazing.

Via d'Azeglio, 37b, 40123 Bologna BO, Italy
Via d'Azeglio, 37b, 40123 Bologna BO, Italy
Meats, cheeses, and bread at l'Emporio in Bologna, Italy
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Polpette e Crescentine

This is one of our favorites! We ordered the Piatto Aperitivo (with a half order of the crescentine fritte) and were stunned when out came a 3-tiered stand full of incredible bites. The crescentine fritte pairs perfectly with the cured meats, and the prices can’t be beat. The University District has a ton of restaurants that operate out of little sheds along the main street, with either alfresco seating or takeaway options. Come and mingle with the younger crowd, and enjoy a scene that fewer tourists venture to. There are 2 locations - the full-servicerestaurant is north of town in Bologanina, which might not be convenient if you’re staying in centro. The other is a more casual option, which is hard to find on Google Maps in the University District. We recommend going to their website and getting the exact address to plug in to go to this location.

Piazza Aldrovandi 19/2a-2b
Piazza Aldrovandi 19/2a-2b
3-tier aperitivo plate at Polpette e Crescentine in Bologna, Italy
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Forno Brisa

We made many a trip to Forno Brisa during our time in Bologna! While we've always known that not all cornetti (croissants) are created equal, this place solidified that. You can always tell the quality of the pastry somewhere by simply ordering a plain croissant (cornetto vuoto). These were fresh, moist, and flaky (the right amount). Not a croissant for breakfast person? No problem. They also have a ton of other pastries available, as well as focaccia, and great coffee. Multiple locations across town.

Multiple Locations
Multiple Locations
Coffee and Pastries at Forna Brisa in Bologna, Italy
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Where to Eat Near

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Best Gelato Spots in

Cremeria Santo Stefano

Cremeria is widely known and talked about, and for good reason. It is definitely one of our favorites in town, but will be for lots of other folks in Bologna as well; make sure to either go during an off time or expect a wait! Located about a 15 minute walk southwest of Piazza Maggiore, it’s a fun diversion that you can walk under a portico almost the entire trip. Cremeria Santo Stefano also has a wide variety of other treats (a great selection of chocolates), if someone in your group somehow doesn’t like gelato!

Via Santo Stefano, 70c, 40125 Bologna BO, Italy
Via Santo Stefano, 70c, 40125 Bologna BO, Italy
A cup of pistachio gelato - you can tell it's quality from the muted green color.
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Cremeria Cavour

Cremeria Cavour is closer to Centro (under a 10 minutes walk from Piazza Maggiore), in a beautiful piazza (aptly named.. Piazza Cavour) where you savor your gelato, has premium gelato flavors, (both classic and inventive, seasonal options), and yet.. we’ve been fortunate enough to never have waited too long to enjoy. Definitely a visit you should make on your gelato tour!

P.za Cavour, 1d, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
P.za Cavour, 1d, 40124 Bologna BO, Italy
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La Sorbetteria Castiglione

Another great option southwest of the city - Bologna is just full of amazing gelato - it’s a 15 minute walk southwest of Piazza Maggiore under beautiful portici the entire way (sound familiar?), we lie La Sorbetteria Castiglione for its inventive flavor combinations. As their name suggests, they also have a wide variety of fruit-based, non-dairy options.

Via Castiglione, 44d, 40125 Bologna BO, Italy
Via Castiglione, 44d, 40125 Bologna BO, Italy
2 cups of gelato from La Sorbetteria Castiglione with their inventive flavors on display.
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What to See in

If you are pressed for time in Bologna, map out some of the beautiful piazzas, including Piazza Cavour, Piazza Mignhetti, and Piazza San Stefano. They offer a glimpse of the magic that Bologna encompasses. And of course, don’t forget to check out the more well known spots be around the heart of Bologna at Piazza Maggiore, the old shops and markets down the narrow alleyways of the Quadrilateral (Quadrilatero in Italian), and the cities most famous two towers (Torre Asinelli and Torre Garisenda). While there are many things to see in the city center, there’s also an abundance of beauty just outside it.

Giardini Margherita

Bologna’s largest and most beautiful public park sits just outside of the main city center. If you are someone who loves green spaces, looking for a relaxing spot to hang out, or go for a run, this park is for you. We found ourselves walking through the park every morning to soak up the sunshine beneath huge trees, beautiful ponds, and open fields of people having picnics and reading books, or having coffee with friends. Speaking of coffee, there’s a couple of spots in the park to grab a bite or a drink. The park is open early and stays open late, which also makes it a pretty “thru street” if you happen to be staying outside of the city center like we have.

A large pond in the middle of a park surrounded by trees
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Walk the Portici

With over 38 miles (62km) of covered walkways (the most extensive in the world), Bologna’s famous porticoes (portici in Italian) are something you literally can’t miss. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site, they are one of Bologna’s most distinct features. Be sure to look up, as many of the ceilings are adorned with beautiful paintings and unique patterns, making them some of the most striking covered walkways that we’ve seen. Despite inclement weather, you can walk almost anywhere you need to in the main city center without the use of an umbrella! With residential and commercial spaces lining these walkways, it’s very convenient to get around town.

Covered arched walkways, also know as Porticoes or Portici in Italian
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Santuario della Madonna di San Luca

Perched outside of the city, this hilltop Sanctuary offers stunning views of Bologna. From the path’s starting point at Porta Saragozza until you reach the top, the walkway is covered entirely by the world’s longest continuous portico. It’s amazing and like nothing we’ve ever seen before! If you decide to walk, it is a beautiful, but very long journey to the top. From our own experience, we were unprepared for the amount of steps and stairs it would take to reach the end destination. We made it, but we weren’t happy about it! I would gladly go again, but next time I will be taking public transportation or the tourist train that drives you up and brings you back down!

A cityscape view of Bologna from Santuario della Madonna di San Luca.
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What to Try in

Mortadella

This region has an abundance of incredible cured meats. Like wine, these meats are aged from months to years, depending on the type and desired outcome. You may be familiar with prosciutto, but have you ever tried mortadella? Known in the United States as something out of an Oscar Mayer package, the original hails in comparison. Order a tagliere di salumi (charcuterie board), add some local cheeses (formaggi) and a side of tigelle (thin, round bread), and savor all of the wonderful flavors.

A yummy sandwich with just mortadella meat. Simple yet delicious.
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Balanzoni

Balanzoni is another type of stuffed pasta originating from Bologna. Often stuffed with ricotta and mortadella, and drenched in butter sauce, this green pasta gets its color from being prepared with spinach.

A plate with 6 large balanzoni pasta on it. The green color of the pasta is a wonderful offset to the white plate.
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Cotoletta alla Bolognese

Another take on the breaded veal cutlet - but this time with prosciutto (aged 24 months) and Parmigiano Reggiano (aged 24 months). What's not to like?!

Cotoletta alla Bolognese with a side of spinach
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Crescentine Fritte con Affettati Misti

Crescentine fritte are small squares or diamonds of fried dough. Typically served hot and accompanied by cured meats (affettati misti), such as prosciutto or salami. Although filling, crescentine fritte makes for a great starter and is one of our favorite things to eat in the region.

Cold cured meat on top of warm freshly baked bread
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Lasagna Verde al Ragù alla Bolognese

Layered with green pasta and ragù, lasagna verde is a Bolognese classic that is traditionally served on Sundays.

Tasty looking bowl of lasagna verde con ragu alla bolognese
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Gramigna alla Salsiccia

This is one of our favorite pasta dishes, hands down. It is super simple; sausage, onion, white wine, cream, olive oil, salt, pepper and, of course, some Parmigiano-Reggiano with the gramigna pasta. Gramigna translates to “Bermuda grass”, which is representative of what a bowl of gramigna pasta looks like, and is a small tubular pasta with a bit of a twirl kicked in. The sauce and sausage complement the pasta perfectly, and it’s impossible to stop eating!

A bowl of gramigna alla salsiccia pasta
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Tortellini in Brodo

Tortellini in brodo consists of small, stuffed pasta rings (tortellini) served in a flavorful broth (brodo). Tortellini is typically filled with a mixture of meats, cheese, or vegetables. The broth is a light and savory soup, usually made from chicken/capon, beef, or vegetable stock. I'll admit - before trying this, I thought to myself, "what's so special about putting pasta in a broth?" I'm glad I got past my doubts and tried it.. because now I know of another way to have pasta that I adore. The broth brings a different dimension to a dish that I thought was tried and true. It's very comforting and surprisingly addicting. You won't be able to stop eating it!

A bowl of tortellini in broth.
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What to Drink in

Lambrusco

Have you ever had a sparkling red wine? If not, lambrusco is a great one to start with! Made with the grape of the same name, this is a refreshing wine that goes well with all the local favorites - gnocco fritto, dried meats, aged cheeses - or even just by itself! Lambrusco is known for its slightly sweet and fizzy characteristics. You can also opt for a drier version - look for 'secco' in the name - if you prefer!

Lambrusco wine from the Emilia-Romagna region
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