Florence

One of our favorite accommodations in the city, the Porta Rossa Hotel Firenze Colbert Collection, is a stunning property. We stayed here over the Christmas holidays and it was beautifully decorated and made our time even more special. The service was great, and the rooms were large, and it was within walking distance to everything. If you're looking for a hotel that is in the best area (including walking distance to the train station), this is your spot!

The first time we stayed in Florence, we stayed at Benci House. The location is fantastic if you plan to explore the main sights. The hotel has a nice balcony that overlooks the street that leads to the Arno River, and we enjoyed some wine outside while it rained. If you're looking for a place to stay with a modern, spa-like environment, we definitely recommend staying here. Book ahead as there are only 4 rooms.

There are so many things to love about this restaurant. It’s not in the main tourist area, but it’s close enough to walk. It has an awesome open kitchen concept, and it's not too big of a restaurant, making it very cozy. They take particular care to use locally sourced ingredients. Their menu changes seasonally, so you’ll see new and interesting things to try on the menu. You have the choice of doing a la carte or a tasting menu, with a minimum of 2 dishes per person. If you happen to be there in fall or winter, they also have a dessert that will remind you of the best apple pie a la mode you’ve ever had! Reservations are a must.

Osteria Belguardo is an upscale restaurant with a beautiful outdoor patio situated near the Arno River. If you come when the weather is right, the patio is the place to dine. The pasta is the star of the show here. From options with truffle to seafood, we dream about these pastas long after our last visit. Some of our favorites include the Tagliatelle alla Buttera, which is usually on the menu, and a couple that you’ll have to get lucky to be in season: the Spaghetti alla Nerano and anything they have with truffle. For the adventurous eaters (count us in!), they have offal selections like cervello fritto and many seafood pasta choices. Finally, if you see a pasta with Vacche Rosse on the menu, this is some of the best cheese in Italy. Order it. It is delicious. A wide selection of desserts like tiramisù and zuccotto will cap off a wonderful evening for you.

Casa Ciabattini is located in the Porta al Prato neighborhood, west of Firenze Santa Maria Novella (train station). A short walk in the opposite direction of the hustle and bustle, this restaurant has some of our favorite dishes in Florence. Namely, the terrina di fegatini di pollo con nocciole (chicken liver pâté with hazelnut). This dish is out of this world. The rest of this contemporary Tuscan menu is great as well. The fettuccine al ragù reminds us of ones we get in Emilia-Romagna, which is not something common in Florence. Their desserts are also fun, like the tiramisù which comes out looking like a potted plant! They have a great bar and wine selection, and attentive service. A highly recommended spot for lunch or dinner.

Across the Arno River (Oltrarno), Il Santo Bevitore is located in the hip and well-known Santo Spirito neighborhood. If you don't already have a reservation and you plan to visit within two weeks, book one now! The restaurant is full most evenings and unprepared diners without a reservation are likely to be turned away. They serve traditional Tuscan cuisine in a dark and moody, yet inviting atmosphere. They have their own forno (oven) and gastronomia (deli), so you know you’re going to get high quality breads, meats, and cheeses. Their pasta is excellently prepared. All in all - you’re going to enjoy your meal here!

Located on the south side of the Arno river, and just a bit away from centro, folks that come here aren’t just meandering by - it’s a destination. With exposed brick and white tablecloths - this is a perfect place to try a bistecca alla fiorentina. As is custom, the steaks are priced by the kilo, and what’s available that evening is based on the cuts of meat they have on hand. If you’re traveling by yourself or with just another person and wanting a steak, come hungry! We plan out our meals for that day when it’s just the two of us, so that we can enjoy the steak. If you’re not a steak eater, don’t worry! They also serve delicious pastas and of course, our favorite, wonderful desserts.

Don’t let Regina Bistecca’s location throw you off. Although it is located within a stone’s throw of Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, the food quality at Regina Bistecca is exceptional. Once you step inside the restaurant, you’ll be whisked away through the restaurant to admire walls adorned with artwork and large shelves filled with books. The space, a former art gallery and bookstore, pays homage to the building’s long history. The draw here though, as you might take away from the name, is the Bistecca alla Fiorentina. At Regina Bistecca, you can order a la carte or they offer meal packages that make ordering simple. Our favorite is the bistecca chianina with a side of the gratin di patate al tartufo. Both are delicious! The restaurant was recently awarded the number 75 spot of the “World’s 101 Best Steak Restaurants” and we can confidently agree that they live up to the award.

This intimate restaurant is stunning. It has very few tables so book ahead of time! Being in the city center, you’ll have many passers-by that haven’t thought ahead, peek in, and disappointingly continue down the street, with the realization the restaurant is filled for the night and there are no spots for spontaneous, unannounced diners. They have an extensive choice of menu options, so everyone will be able to find something they enjoy. We recommend trying at least one dish with black truffle, a delicacy of the region!

A small, cozy restaurant, Trattoria da Ruggero offers traditional Tuscan food with a wide selection of cucina povera dishes. We love this type of food, especially in fall and winter! There’s something about a hearty, traditional Tuscan meal when the weather is cool that makes for the perfect combination. They also serve our favorite cantucci by Antonio Mattei for dessert. Located a 30-minute walk from Centro Storico, Trattoria da Ruggero is worth the steps (or a bus ride). Reservations are only accepted over the phone. We highly recommend calling ahead to reserve your table!

Dalla Lola specializes in cucina povera, and does it exceptionally well. Located in Santo Spirito, their menu has daily changes and is presented to you handwritten on carta paglia (the paper we often see calamari served on). We love their fegatini e cipolla (liver and onions), which is usually a staple on their menu. As the menu changes often, this will be an adventure of a meal. Check their instagram stories ahead of time, as they usually post the menu del giorno there. This is now a popular place; it was recently featured on Tucci in Italy. Dinner reservations are available 2 weeks out, and lunch is on a first-come, first-served basis. With limited tables, be sure to plan ahead for this one!

If you didn’t know about Loggia Roof Bar, you’d likely miss it completely. Overlooking the popular Piazza Santo Spirito and the Tuscan hills, the terrace sits on the third floor of Hotel Palazzo Guadagni and can’t really be seen from the street. When you enter the unassuming door from the piazza, you’ll take a small white elevator or the stairs up to find the bustling bar. A reservation is almost always required, especially if you are hoping to score a spot for sunset views. Tables can be reserved several weeks in advance and you are allotted one and a half hours for the table. Loggia’s Roof Bar drink menu is top notch, including their own Negroni recipe and specialty cocktails. Paired with some light bites, this is a perfect way to start your evening!

The birthplace of the Negroni, Giacosa has been pouring this famous drink since 1919 when Count Cammillo Negroni asked the bartender to add gin to his Americano! If you’re a fan of the Negroni, Giacosa 1815 is as close to a non-negotiable as you can get while you’re in Florence. It is the Negroni experience. Their cocktail menu offers many different takes on the Negroni and everyone in your party will find something to their liking. It also happens to be one of our favorites for aperitivo. The bar is moody and elegant but it has limited seating. This is one to definitely reserve ahead of time. They are also open all day for breakfast, coffee, and light bites.

Looking for a traditional Italian breakfast spot? Buonamici is one of our favorites to get the traditional Italian breakfast: a coffee and a pastry. While definitely not a secret with the tourist crowd, Buonamici also pulls in the locals, creating the naturally chaotic, yet perfectly organized, typical Italian pastry/coffee shop experience. As you muscle your way to the counter to order your pastry and coffee, you’ll see the bakers constantly streaming from the kitchen in the back, bringing freshly baked treats to the front counter to restock. While most places you pay first then collect your goods, do the opposite here. Order your coffee and pastries, eat, then pay at the cash register as you leave. It will save you the headache!

When you are looking for breakfast in centro storico, there are options on virtually every corner. Our pick is Cantinetta dei Verrazzano. Located down a side street, Cantinetta dei Verrazzano makes high quality baked goods and has a great coffee bar. In addition to this, they also have full breakfast options if you are looking for something a bit more substantial. Next door is their wine shop (Castello di Verrazzano is their winery), where you can enjoy lunch or dinner. This is a great option at any time of day!

Pasticceria Gualtieri is one of our favorite places in Florence to get breakfast. Located just south of the roundabout for Porta Romana, it’s almost a 20-minute walk from Ponte Vecchio and a little bit of a time commitment if you are staying in centro storico. The good news is that you’ll be headed away from the majority of the tourist crowd! But this doesn't mean it won't be packed with the local crowd! Pasticceria Gualtieri opened in 1933 and is famous for its cakes. Not only are their cakes delicious, including their own called the Iris Cake, their pastry selection is amazing. Paired with their delicious coffee, this is the place to be in the neighborhood. They’re also open in the afternoons if you’re looking for something sweet!

Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio is an incredible market that’s just a bit outside of the typical tourist district. There are a ton of great vendors to get groceries to take home, or to have a low key meal right there. We’ve stopped by La Caffeterria del Vecchio Mercato and had some of the most incredible sandwiches (panini) here - and they were only 6 euro for 2. This was such an affordable and substantial meal!

Outside Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio, there’s a nondescript storefront that serves some of the best sandwiches in Florence. It’s our favorite street food in town, that’s for sure! The sandwich choices aren’t typical combinations, which we love. For instance, our favorite is the pear, cheese, and truffle. You’re going to get a fresh, delicious sandwich no matter which one you order. If you are thirsty, your options are wine or bottled water! There aren’t many places to sit inside, only 3 or 4 stools, but you can likely find a bench outside nearby. They’re open for very limited hours for lunch, and not all days of the week (so be sure to check before you walk there). If you come here early, you might be able to get by without a line. Otherwise, wait patiently and chalk it up being part of your Florentine experience. It’s worth it!

Sbrino has 3 locations, all of which are in the Oltrarno neighborhood. It’s worth the trek if you happen to be staying north of the river. They use 100% organic milk and they’ve been recognized by Gambero Rosso as one of the best gelato shops in Florence. You’ll get great quality gelato here! When you come, be sure to look at the menu for their seasonal, unique flavors.

La Strega Nocciola has had great success and now has 5 stores, with locations scattered around Florence. The quality and rich flavors of La Strega Nocciola are phenomenal and a gelato spot not to be missed. If you're visiting during chestnut season, try the castagne. It is one of our favorites and pairs perfectly with their chocolate and stracciatella. While we usually steer clear of places near major attractions, the location near the Duomo and Ponte Vecchio make them easy to find.

Located just a few minutes walk from both Palazzo Pitti and Ponte Vecchio, Gelateria Della Passera is the type of gelato shop you should seek out. Skip the other gelato shops with mountains of brightly colored gelati, and take a few extra steps to the nondescript Piazza della Passera. Open since 2010, owner Cinzia Otri uses own high quality milk and ingredients to craft her gelato. The flavors are rich and creamy and some of our favorites in the city. The gelateria has been recognized with multiple nationally-renowned awards over the years, including tre coni from Gambero Rosso!

La Sorbettiera is another Florence gelato success story. With 4 locations throughout Florence, they say they bring “A corner of sweetness in every neighborhood” - and we agree! An interesting, quite unique thing about La Sorbettiera, is that all their gelato is gluten free. Antonio Ciabattoni’s approach to treating gelato as an art is something we really enjoy. It’s even expanded outside of Italy to Bonn, Germany where his brother, Simone, runs a La Sorbettiera as well! While the list of flavors they make is long, the ones sold on any particular day are the ones that you get to choose from.

We don’t claim to be art experts, but one of the most impressive pieces we’ve ever seen is the Statue of David, located in the Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze. The museum does have more to see than just David, including other Michelangelo sculptures, paintings, and musical instruments. As you might imagine, David is the primary attraction and what draws the crowds. There are several ways to purchase tickets in advance, which we recommend to avoid the long lines for general admission.

For art aficionados and Renaissance enthusiasts, there are very few, if any, places in the world that top the Uffizi. Originally built as an office building (uffizi translates to offices) by the Medici family in the 1500s, it has been open to the public since 1769. A museum since 1865, the Uffizi Gallery is home to thousands of pieces of art! Most people spend several hours here so plan accordingly. Be aware that the museum is closed on Mondays and books up well in advance. We suggest booking your tickets way ahead of time!

The Florence Cathedral is one of the most recognized buildings in the world, full stop. An architectural masterpiece when it was finished in 1436, the construction of the dome required many new inventions in order to be completed. To date, it is still the world’s largest masonry dome. The footprint of the cathedral is massive, with 8,300 square meters of floor area. The architecture is a wonder to look at, with Neo-Gothic and Renaissance inspirations from the over 200-year construction period. There are multiple options that you can choose from to see the Cathedral. Some are free, some require payment. Regardless, remember that this is an active place of worship and there are dress codes for certain areas.

One of the most iconic bridges of all time, the Ponte Vecchio was the only bridge in Florence that wasn’t destroyed during World War II. As you cross the bridge, there are merchant shops built up along its sides for the many gold and jewelry vendors. Since this is a pedestrian only bridge that connects two high traffic areas on each side of the Arno, it does get pretty congested, but it’s worth it for the experience. A very picturesque bridge, you’ll definitely want to see it from afar to capture the beauty of the unique colors, the arches, and the unique residences built into the structure. Be sure to walk down to the other nearby bridges to take some photos, both during the day and at night!

For the most stunning vista of the city, Piazzale Michelangelo is the place to go. Located south of the Arno river, you’ll get to see the Ponte Vecchio, the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore, and the rest of the Florence skyline with the signature terracotta roofs on almost every building within sight. There is also a smaller, bronze replica of the Statue of David that is worth seeing. To get here, it is about a 30-minute walk with about 60 meters of elevation from the Cathedral. If the weather isn’t cooperating, or if walking isn’t an option, it can be reached by bus or car as well.

Italy’s history of making leather goes back centuries, with Florence playing an important role. Our favorite store to shop for high quality leather goods is the Scuola del Cuoio, which was established after World War II to teach war orphans the art of creating leather items. Its primary function is training new artisans, but we love that we can buy from the talent the school produces! We both purchased a belt that we had adjusted on-the-spot for the appropriate size that we needed. It makes for a fun and special memory, and buying here guarantees that you are purchasing an authentic leather piece.

What does the richest, most powerful family in the 16^th century build for their outdoor entertainment and relaxation? The Boboli Gardens, of course! This huge, 45K square meter park is located in Oltrarno, just behind the grand Palazzo Pitti (Pitti Palace). The outdoor space is a refuge from the crowds elsewhere. If you’re seeking a break from all the concrete, wandering around a cyprus-lined trail is the perfect remedy. Boboli Gardens (Giardino di Boboli) is currently undergoing several massive restoration projects, but don’t let that deter you. This is often the best time to visit because you get to see sculptures in a pre and post-restoration status. Come here to enjoy a bit of respite.

Tucked away on Via Porta Rossa, you’ll find the bright blue storefront for Biscottificio Antonio Mattei Museo Bottega a Firenze. What is Antonio Mattei famous for? Cantucci, often referred to as Biscotti di Prato. A twice-baked almond cookie, often paired with a sweet wine (Vin Santo) for dessert, these crunchy cookies are a must try. Antonio Mattei has been making cookies since 1858! Since then, they have also added hazelnut, pistachio, and chocolate biscotti to their collection. While the factory is located in nearby Prato (and opened for tours Jan-Jun), the storefront in Florence is the perfect place to grab a bag or tin of cookies to take home. Be sure to venture up the small flight of stairs to the museum room and see the story behind how this wonderful cookie maker came to be.

For steak lovers, this is a must try. Like many other things Italian, there are specific qualifications that make a Bistecca alla Fiorentina. The cut must be from a breed of cattle called the Chianina. The Chianina could be the oldest breed of cattle in existence, and are known for their lean meat. The cut of meat is a T-bone, and it must be at least 3 fingers thick. There is no marinade; it is cooked over a bed of hot coals, then flavored with salt and olive oil after resting. It is cooked to sanguinoso - which means rare. The end product is a very high quality, delicious, and substantial steak. It is highly recommended to share this steak with others, as it's a huge portion of meat! It’s often difficult for just the two of us to finish.

Tuscany is fortunate to have truffle season year-round. While varieties of truffle each have their own time of year they can be found, there are multiple different types that are found in the Tuscany region around Florence. Most of the year, varieties of black truffle are available. While not as rare as white truffles, black truffles are still prized and only found in very few places throughout the world. These are best enjoyed when shaved fresh as part of your meal. They are typically normally charged by the ounce, so sure to specify how much you want when they are shaving them at the table. A very special treat!

We're huge fans of almonds. Thankfully for us, so are Italians! In Tuscany, this means you can find great desserts made with almonds, and one of the best is cantucci. Originally from Prato, just a short distance northwest of Florence, Cantucci are hard almond cookies that are often served with Vin Santo, a dessert wine. You can also dip these in milk or coffee, as they are a versatile sweet that can be enjoyed any time of day. Our favorite manufacturer of cantucci is Antonio Mattei, and served at eating establishments all over town, like Da Ruggero.

If you’re looking for a very traditional Florentine dessert, consider ordering schiacciata d’uva. Schiacciata is a flat bread that many street food places use for their panini (which are a great option if you’re looking for something quick and easy for a meal). Schiacciata d’uva uses this bread, adds grapes, and turns it into a delicious dessert! You’ll see this all over town, with places putting their own unique take on the recipe.

Invented at Giacosa in 1919, this is one of our favorite drinks pre-meal. Composed of ⅓ sweet vermouth, ⅓ campari, and ⅓ gin, it’s a wonderfully bitter drink that satiates you for the cuisine of the evening. We recommend going late in the afternoon for aperitivo and getting one where it all started!

The Tuscany region is world-renowned for its Sangiovese grapes. The region produces some of the best wine in the world. At the top of the list for Tuscany is the Brunello di Montalcino and its younger version - Rosso di Montalcino. Both varietals come from the area around the commune of Montalcino, which is about a 2-hour drive south of Florence. They are made with 100% Sangiovese grapes, and pair well with the Bistecca alla Fiorentina.

The Brunello di Montalcino is not the only world famous wine out of Tuscany. Known for its famous logo, the black rooster, the Chianti Classico is also made primarily with sangiovese grapes - they must be at least 80%. The region that Chianti Classico DOCG can be produced is all over Tuscany, thus is going to be easier to find with more producers than the Brunello di Montalcino/Rosso di Montalcino. It is a wonderful wine to have with meats and cheeses.