Parma

We love staying in the heart of Parma when we visit. The location is the best for exploring the charming streets of the city, and a 5 to 10-minute walk to all of the best restaurants. Our recommendation is to stay at this beautiful bed & breakfast located in an old palazzo. Parma does not have the best of options when it comes to lodging, in our opinion. They do have an NH Collection property next to the train station, which offers large, modern rooms with all of the hotel amenities. It’s not our favorite part of town, but convenient if you are arriving/departing by train and still relatively close to everything.

This inventive ristorante makes its “pan di 20” the star. Everything about the preparation is unique - the type of dough they use makes it thicker than a normal crust, giving a crispy finish without being overly dense. If it is in season, the zucca (pumpkin) paired with cotechino is a combination so good that we're still dreaming about it 5 years later! The ingredients change with the season, but you can’t go wrong with any of the menu offerings. They also have an amazing selection of pastas and desserts. We recommend the sbrisolona...and if you’ve read about our time in Verona, you’ll know how much we love this crumbly, almond cookie dessert! Paired with a side of creamy zabaione, it’s the perfect end to any meal.

Looking for traditional Emilian cuisine but with a touch of modern flair? Open since 2023, Brisla is your place! The menu will look familiar with typical Emilian dishes, but when they arrive at your table, you will immediately witness the creativity of the chefs and how the dishes are presented. We suggest the tagliolini, served with a liver ragù and a perfectly cooked and placed egg on top; the ‘full buttons’ (botoni di pieno) pasta comes with a parmesan fondue sauce and has so much flavor; and the roast, which is stuffed with parmesan and served with potatoes. They also have one of the more unique zuppa inglese desserts we’ve had; it comes with an ultra thick layer of chocolate “icing” on top and they don’t hold back on soaking the sponge cake!

Cortex Bistrot is a cute little spot just a few steps east of the Parma Cathedral. What makes Cortex Bistrot different, special, and worth going to? The chefs, married couple Diego Sales and Mikako Tomita, bring vast international cooking experiences to the menu with a subtle Asian flair on some of the seasonally-changed menu items. For instance, the Oxtail is served with kimchi and the amuse-bouche comes with a kombucha cleanser. They also have the option to do ‘half portions’ so that your table can try out more items on the menu. With the option of tables in one room, or sitting at the bar in the entry area for just a drink or a meal, you have options on what dining experience you’d like!

A normal rule of thumb is to avoid places to eat and drink near famous gathering points; people are willing to pay for the view and sacrifice quality of food in exchange. Do not let the vicinity of the Parma Cathedral and Baptistery to Angiol d’Or sway you! Even though it is within sight of these famous Parma landmarks, the food at Angiol d’Or is outstanding and is worth going to. We find this to consistently have the best traditional Emilian antipasti. Go here for the prosciutto, torta fritta, parmigiano reggiano, giardiniera, and the warmheartedness of the owner and the staff.

Da Pepèn is a Parma institution that opened in 1953 and is a great spot to grab a sandwich. The process is simple: walk up, order at the counter, wait for your sandwich to be made, and listen for your name to be called! The shop itself is small with very few seats, so if you’re lucky, there might be an open seat inside. More likely, you’ll enjoy your sandwich in the alley with other happy patrons. Be sure to note on the menu that some of their specialty sandwiches are only available on certain days of the week (if you are an adventurous eater, try the polpette di cavallo)!In or headed to Milan? You’re in luck –they just opened a location there!

Ristorante Gallo D’Oro and its sister restaurant, Trattoria Corrieri, serve traditional Emilian cuisine. This is the place where you begin your meal with torta fritta and pair it with your favorite salumi. The warm, sweet and soft bread nearly melts the cured meats; it’s basically heaven in a bite! Both restaurants are known for their Tris di Tortelli - three types of Tortelli; potato, ricotta & herbs, and pumpkin. It’s a very picturesque plate of pasta and worth trying if you want to sample all 3! If you’re in the mood for a warm meal, the cappelletti in brodo will do the trick.

Looking for the best pastry in town? You better get here early or be prepared to wait inline! As it states in their name, Coce Bakery is a ‘Micro Bakery’. They have a very small store front - the total store is 8 square meters, including the space for employees! With the size being so small, it’s really only big enough for the person ordering to go inside to do so. There’s a limit on how many items you can buy at one time without a preorder…and they still sell out! Being named ‘Bakery of the Year’ by Gambero Rosso will definitely do that!

As you can tell by the name, Cioccolateria Gelateria Banchini is more than just a gelato shop. Originally opening in 1879, they reopened in 2012 after the great-great-grandchildren found Gian Battista Banchini’s recipe book (we’ll just say they were “temporarily closed” between 1969 and 2012). Bahchini has 2 stores and an online shop where you can order their specialty chocolates. We also recommend going to Banchini for breakfast; they have great coffee and pastries. Do your best to make a stop for gelato. The flavors are unique and incredible. The house specialty is Biscotto Della Duchessa - it’s their oldest recipe and they include pieces of the chocolate cookies IN the gelato!

Sometimes finding a great gelato spot is an adventure; such is the case with Gelateria Farini. With no website, and a competitor that has locations in 6 countries right across the street, it can be tough to garner attention. We’ve unearthed this gem so be sure to add it to your list! Our favorites include chocolate, stracciatella, salted pistachio, and spagnola. Spagnola is vanilla with sour cherries, and it is called Spagnola because of its resemblance to the Spanish flag - yellow from the vanilla and red from the sour cherries!

Are you a fan of extra creamy gelato? If so, Ciacco Lab is your place! Located in a historic building that was once a hat shop (you can still see the original “Cappelleria” signs on the outside of the building, above the Ciacco Lab shade structures), owner Stefano Guizzetti has been making natural gelato (e.g. no preservatives) since 2013 at Ciacco Lab. Ciacco Lab also serves coffee and pastries, making this a must stop for beyond just gelato!

In Piazza del Duomo, the heart of the historic city center, you’ll find the Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta. Upon entering its doors, you’ll discover a dark, ornate interior, a stark contrast from its modest exterior. The walls and ceilings are adorned with a combination of Romanesque, Gothic sculptures, and Renaissance paintings. The most well known work of art in the church is the frescoed dome by Coreggio of the Assumption of the Virgin. The church is free to enter, but be aware that it is closed during hours of worship. Plan accordingly!

Located beside the cathedral, the Parma Baptistery (San Giovanni Battista) is a striking octagonal structure built from a distinctive pink marble. Inside, the space centers around a four-leaf clover–shaped basin, of the same pink marble, where baptisms once took place. The dome ceiling is richly decorated with a Byzantine-inspired fresco, adding another layer of beauty to this unique and historic building. Among the many sculptures and layers of art, we particularly liked the cycles of the months, which included the zodiac signs and the seasons. There is an admission fee to enter and tickets must be purchased across the piazza at the ticket office.

This sprawling museum complex in the middle of town has a wealth of information inside, from a breathtaking library, to an archeological museum, to famous works of art, to a full scale theater. Why such a whimsical set of buildings with what seems like no rhyme or reason to the order? Originally built in the 1500s, La Pilotta was heavily bombed in World War II, and sections were destroyed. It only reopened to the public in 2023, and is still improving year over year. This impressive collection of museums houses 2 colossal sculptures that could rival Michelangelo’s David (Florence), and has on display works from Leonardo da Vinci and Correggio (who is known for his fresco on the dome of the Parma Cathedral). You could spend several hours here, if you choose to, so plan your day accordingly!

Prosciutto di Parma is a renowned dry-cured ham that comes from the Parma region. The ham is dry-salted and aged for a minimum of 12 months, though some varieties are aged for up to 24 months. The result is a delicate, melt-in-your-mouth texture, with a rich, savory flavor. Prosciutto di Parma is often sliced thinly and enjoyed as a part of antipasti platters, paired with melon, wrapped around breadsticks (grissini), or used as a topping for pizzas and pastas. Its distinct quality and taste have made it a beloved ingredient in Italian cuisine.

Parmigiano Reggiano, also known as Parmesan cheese, is a high-quality Italian cheese that originates from the regions of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, Bologna, and Mantua. It is made from cow's milk and is renowned for its distinctive flavor and granular texture. Parmigiano Reggiano is aged for a minimum of 12 months, but some varieties are aged for even longer, resulting in a more intense flavor. It is commonly grated and used as a topping for pasta, risotto, soups, and salads, or enjoyed on its own as a delicious, savory snack.

Torta fritta is a traditional starter in Emilia-Romagna that consists of small squares or diamonds of fried dough. It is typically served hot and accompanied by cured meats, such as prosciutto, culatello, and lardo. Although filling, torta fritta is one of our favorite things to eat in the region.

Zucca is the Italian word for "pumpkin", refers to a variety of winter squash that are commonly used in Italian cuisine (more commonly in northern Italy). In Italian cuisine, pumpkin is often celebrated during the autumn season and used in a variety of savory and sweet recipes due to its vibrant color, mild sweetness, and versatile culinary properties. It is delicious in and on everything we have ever tried (even on pizza/pinsa!).

Tortelli is another type of stuffed pasta, traditionally filled with a variety of ingredients including zucca, ricotta cheese & herbs, potatoes, or meat. Tortelli are often topped with parmigiano-reggiano and olive oil or butter. A must try in Parma and in Emilia-Romagna in general.

Anolini in brodo consists of a small, stuffed pasta, served in a flavorful broth (brodo). Anolini is typically filled with a mixture of cheese, and often does not contain meat. The broth is a light and savory soup, usually made from chicken/capon, beef, or vegetable stock.

Have you ever drank sparkling red wine? If not, lambrusco is a great one to start with! Made with the grape of the same name, this is a refreshing wine that goes well with all the local specialties - gnocco fritto/torta fritta, cured meats, aged cheeses - or even just by itself! Locals drink lambrusco (and often!) to cleanse their palette and often joke that they consume as much lambrusco as they do water! Primarily grown in the Emilia-Romagna region including Modena, Parma, and Reggio Emilia, there are 11 different styles of lambrusco in this region alone. Be prepared to try different ones to find your favorite! We prefer lambrusco that is scuro (dark) and secco (dry) as opposed to the sweeter ones that are lighter in color.