Piazza IV Novembre in centro Perugia, ItalyPiazza IV Novembre in centro Perugia, Italy

Perugia

Umbria

A historic Umbrian city known for artisanal chocolate, rich local cuisine, and lively medieval streets. Perugia blends culinary traditions with art, culture, and vibrant piazzas.

About

Perugia, Umbria's hilltop capital and largest city, has over 150,000 residents and gorgeous views of central Italy's countryside. Assisi (of famous St. Francis) is a short 30-minute drive to the east, Orvieto and its dramatic cathedral are an hour away, and Florence and Rome are roughly 2 hours by car.

Perugia has literal layers of history. Walking through centro storico, you'll see Etruscan arches supporting medieval walls topped with Renaissance palazzos, centuries of history on display. The evolution of the city continues today in the arts. The Umbria Jazz Festival, one of the major events, transforms the city into a multi-stage music festival every July. Perugia is known for its rustic Umbrian cuisine, embracing exquisite butchery techniques that have been adopted throughout the world. Finally, it's the home of Baci, one of the most iconic chocolates in the world.

Come to Perugia for the porchetta, the arts, and the chocolate. Perugia's norcini (master butchers) have been perfecting their craft since medieval times, and you can get the quality in trattorias (trattorie) and restaurants (ristoranti) all over town. See the ancient walls, the acquaduct, the Etruscan well, or catch a jazz show. And yes, there's a plethora of chocolate (made right here at the Perugina factory). Perugia also isn't on the classic tourist circuit, giving you an unadulterated experience. This is the Italy you came looking for.

AIR, RAIL, AND TRAVEL TIMES

Getting To

Best Airport(s)

Perugia (PEG), Rome Fiumicino (FCO), Florence (FLR)

Estimated Time (Airport → City)

PEG → Perugia: ~20–35 min (car/taxi) / ~30–60 min (bus/train)

FCO → Perugia: ~2h15–3h00 (car) / ~2h30–3h30 (train)

FLR → Perugia: ~1h45–2h30 (car) / ~2h00–3h00 (train)

Main Train Station(s)

Perugia, Perugia Ponte San Giovanni

Quick Tip

Perugia’s hilltop center is easiest by taxi/MiniMetro from the station—some hotels require an uphill walk.

Pin on map of Italy showing city's location
Pin on map of Italy showing city's location

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Where to EatBest Gelato SpotsWhat to SeeWhat to TryWhat to DrinkHelpful Resources

Where to Stay in

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Where to Eat in

Ristorante Luce

Ristorante Luce is the type of hidden gem we love to seek out. We’re telling you this place should be #1 on your list for Perugia. It gets great reviews online, but the sheer number of them pales in comparison to other locations in town. The first thing you’ll notice when you walk in is the setting. They took a 15th century palazzo and kept the charm; you can even see Etruscan walls beneath the floors (on the way to the bathroom). Of course the ambiance wouldn’t mean much to us if the food wasn’t to the same high bar. Ristorante Luce is a place you can go multiple times on the same trip and have plenty of variety. Highlights include sweetbreads, linguine, risotto, and of course, chocolate mousse for dessert. The tasting menu is also wonderful and reasonably priced.

Via Ulisse Rocchi, 18 - 20, 06123 Perugia PG, Italy
Via Ulisse Rocchi, 18 - 20, 06123 Perugia PG, Italy
Veal sweetbreads at Ristorante Luce in Perugia, Italy
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Ristorante Il Giurista

Make your way down the stairs to find this charming restaurant. The staff are friendly, the service is professional and helpful, and the ambiance is wonderful. If you’re a fan of chicken liver, start with the fegatini di pollo. It is excellent! We always love to try risotto that incorporates wine(s) of the region if it’s on the menu. The risotto al Sagrantino di Montefalco was delicious and had sausage in it. A highly recommended dish if you are looking to try something new (or if you are like us and just love wine in your risotto!). The highlight dish was the tagliatelle al tartufo. If there is one dish that you won’t want to share with anyone, it would be this one. It was one of the best pastas we had in Umbria. The stuffed rabbit and side of artichokes were also very good! Paired with their house wine, an Umbro Rosso, it makes for an excellent meal. A highly recommended stop in Perugia. Be sure to book ahead on their website!

Via Bartolo, 30, 06123 Perugia PG, Italy
Via Bartolo, 30, 06123 Perugia PG, Italy
Tagliatelle al tartufo at Ristorante il Giurista in Perugia, Italy
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La Taverna

La Taverna is a Perguian institution. Since 1980, Chef Claudio Brugalossi not only runs the kitchen, he also makes himself available to all the guests in a welcoming fashion. From serving delicious amuse-bouche and a complimentary glass of prosecco, to having great recommendations for your table, the staff are highly trained and professional. The dishes here are full of flavor, from pastas served in broth to delicious chocolate desserts. If you’re coming with a group, we suggest getting one of their steaks for the table. Otherwise, you might have to visit twice - once for the pastas and once for the steak! Call ahead for reservations.

Via delle Streghe, 8, 06123 Perugia PG, Italy
Via delle Streghe, 8, 06123 Perugia PG, Italy
Pasta at La Taverna in Perugia, Italy
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Ristorante del Sole

Ristorante del Sole is great for lunch or dinner. At lunch, you have a panoramic view east of Perugia. You can even see Assisi off in the distance! Once the sun sets, the view goes away (except on a holiday like New Year’s Eve where you get a great view of all the fireworks). The restaurant creates a wonderful ambience that makes it a completely different experience at dinner. For food, we recommend anything they have with cinghiale (wild boar), as this is one of their specialities. The pasta with the sagrantino wine and cinghiale is especially flavorful. Additionally, they have a surprising number of dishes with seafood which are delicious. Finish off with anything chocolate for dolce, and you’ll experience a great meal.

Via della Rupe, 1, 06121 Perugia PG, Italy
Via della Rupe, 1, 06121 Perugia PG, Italy
Pasta at Ristorante del Sole in Perugia, Italy
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Osteria dei Priori

There are many reasons to stop by Osteria dei Priori. Looking for a bottle of wine or beer to go with a home cooked meal? Or a great bottle of olive oil to take home? Osteria dei Priori is the place to go in town. Beyond the great selection of take away goods, Osteria dei Priori also has a full restaurant with a wonderful menu of Umbrian classics; everything from torta al testo to pasta and secondo served with Chianina beef to sangrotti cookies. With seating both indoors and outdoor (when the weather permits), it’s a spot the entire family can enjoy. Be sure to book ahead online!

Via dei Priori, 39, 06123 Perugia PG
Via dei Priori, 39, 06123 Perugia PG
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Ristorante Ferrari

Known for their wood-fired oven, this is your spot for pizza! Ferrari Ristorante has a very extensive menu in general, not just pizza. But if it’s what you’re craving, their options seem never ending! Being in Umbria, we had to order the Norcina. It was one of the best pizzas we’ve ever had. The crust was amazing, as were the quality of the ingredients used.

Via Scura, 1, 06123 Perugia PG
Via Scura, 1, 06123 Perugia PG
Pizza alla Norcina at Ristorante Ferrari in Perugia, Italy
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Pizzeria Mediterraneo

When you’re looking for a no frills, local spot for a pizza, Pizzeria Mediterraneo does the trick. Located conveniently right around the corner from Piazza IV Novembre, Pizzeria Mediterraneo has a large menu that you’ll be able to find something for even the pickiest eaters. It is a hit with the locals, so do your best to get there a few minutes before prime eating hours to make sure you can get a table.

P.za Piccinino, 11, 06122 Perugia PG
P.za Piccinino, 11, 06122 Perugia PG
Pizza at Pizzeria Mediterraneo in Perugia, Italy
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Caffè Arco

The best pistachio cornetto in town? We found it! Make your way to Arco and enjoy a warm, freshly baked croissant paired with a cappuccino that’s been sprinkled with chocolate. If we could have this every morning, we would. Not into pistachio? Don’t worry - they have a ton of other options for you! Not a morning person? No problem. They have an excellent bar scene too for aperitivo.

Via Maestà delle Volte, 11, 06123 Perugia PG, Italy
Via Maestà delle Volte, 11, 06123 Perugia PG, Italy
Pistachio cornetto from Caffe Arco in Perugia, Italy
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Where to Eat Near

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Best Gelato Spots in

La Gelateria

This was some of the best gelato we’ve had in Italy! As big fans of baci chocolates, and being in the city they are home to, we had to try the bacio flavor. With chunks of hazelnuts mixed in with the chocolate gelato, the crunch added the perfect texture (just like eating a baci!). We, of course, also had the stracciatella and the pistachio in our cup - both incredible. Not to be confused with another gelateria in town with the same name, this one is located on Piazza Giacomo Matteotti.

Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, 31, 06121 Perugia PG
Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, 31, 06121 Perugia PG
Cup of gelato with wafer cookie from La Gelateria in Perugia, Italy
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Mastro Cianuri Cioccolateria e Gelateria

For over 40 years, this family-owned shop has been operating in Perugia. Specializing in decadent chocolates, pastries, and gelato. We went specifically for the gelato and weren’t disappointed! We had to try their chocolate, of course, as well as the pistachio and pine nut cream. This location is closed on Mondays so plan accordingly!

Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, 17, 06121 Perugia PG, Italy
Piazza Giacomo Matteotti, 17, 06121 Perugia PG, Italy
Cup of gelato with chocolate, pistachio, and pine nut cream from Mastro Cianuri Cioccolateria e Gelateria in Perugia, Italy
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What to See in

Fontana Maggiore

Built in the 1200s in celebration of the town’s aqueduct, the fountain is Perugia’s centerpiece in the middle of Piazza IV Novembre. All of the town’s central cultural events happen here; from New Year’s eve celebrations to the unveiling of the world’s largest Baci (in 2003, weighed almost 6,000 kg!). The sculpture on the fountain is immaculate, showing scenes of daily life for the 12 months + other scenes on 25 panels, plus 24 statues of different statues of religious figures. The amount of detail is impressive; the Fontana Maggiore is worth gazing at every time you pass by.

Fontana Maggiore in Perugia, Italy
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The Aquaduct

Speaking of why Fontana Maggiore was built, you can see the aqueduct itself. As mentioned above, the aqueduct was built in the 1200s and was an engineering marvel at the time. The designers were able to have water flow uphill, without the assistance of pumps. Today, a section of the aqueduct is used as a pedestrian walkway.

Old aquaduct pedestrian walkway in Perugia, Italy
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Umbrian Vistas

Perugia’s position on a hill affords it stunning views of the Umbrian countryside in almost 360 degrees. There are main vantage points throughout the city, including at Punto Panoramico, Terrazza del Mercato coperto, or Belvedere della Piazza Gio. Battista Rossi Scotti. The Umbrian views are quite stunning; it’s worth gazing off to the horizon and enjoying these spectacular vistas!

Views looking out from Perugia, Italy
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The fortress (Rocco Paolina)

The construction of the Rocco Paolina left behind one of the more impressive architectural features of Perugia. Rocco Paolina was built as a Renaissance fortress, but for them to construct, they had to demolish and build on top of many Etruscan and medieval structures. Throughout the 1900s, excavation projects have now undercovered the remains, which are several layers underneath today’s street levels. Many of these underground walkways are publicly accessible and worth wandering around in.

Inside Rocca Paolina in Perugia, Italy
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Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria

Located in the heart of Perugia right off Piazza IV Novembre, Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria is an impressive museum representing Umbrian art from the 13th to 19th centuries. The layout of the museum is one of the favorites we have seen in a museum; done in chronological order with care shown to the artists the exhibit highlights. The way the museum sets them up, the artisans become real and you come closer to understanding their work. As an extra bonus, the museum is housed inside the Palazzo dei Priori, and the walls of the Palazzo are sometimes THE artwork on display in the museum. How cool!

Artwork in the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria in Perugia, Italy
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Etruscan Well (Pozzo Etrusco)

This one is for the history and the engineering aficionados out there. The construction of the well dates back to the 3rd century B.C. While digging a hole over 100 feet deep is certainly impressive, the thing that gave us the most awe are the trusses supporting the hole. These massive beams made of travertine are over 17,000 pounds each, and they’re fitted together without the use of mortar. It’s quite a sight to see. When you descend lower, you will walk over a newer walkway that allows you to see the water line from a closer perspective. That’s right, well over 2,000 years later, the well could still be functioning if needed. Fair warning, while impressive to see the trusses and example of pre B.C. construction, the well itself is what you’re paying the admission here for. There’s nothing else to it beyond that.

View of the well from above in Perugia, Italy
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What to Try in

Baci Chocolate

Going to Perugia and not trying Baci chocolate, where it’s from, might be a sin. Okay, we’re kidding, but seriously how could you come all this way and NOT try it?! Probably our favorite combination of hazelnut+chocolate, it is our favorite chocolate ‘kiss’ (baci means kisses in Italian). Located on the outskirts of Perugia, taking the factory tour makes it all the more fun.

Perugina Baci chocolates
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What to Drink in

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