Arriving in the city center, Florence feels like a dream. This is a city that makes you feel alive - you really have to pinch yourself to believe it’s real. Florence is a must visit for any lover of art or architecture. It’s apparent everywhere that the Renaissance began here! From the statue of David to the Uffizi Gallery, you will have shock and awe around every corner. No matter how many times you go to Florence, it still feels magical. But, as we all know too well, Florence is no secret. During busy times, expect lines at the major tourist spots, crowded streets, and full restaurants. While Florence isn't our favorite city for food in Italy, we found some great places that we really enjoyed!  

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firenze

where to eat in Florence

There are so many things to love about this restaurant. It’s not in the main tourist area, but it’s close enough to walk. It has an awesome open kitchen concept, and it's not too big of a restaurant, making it very cozy. They take particular care to use locally sourced ingredients. Their menu changes seasonally, so you’ll see new and interesting things to try on the menu. You have the choice of doing a la carte or a tasting menu - which are very reasonably priced. We love their chitarra pasta, which is a staple on the menu. Their pork secondi dish is also excellent. If you happen to be there in fall or winter, they have a dessert that will remind you of the best apple pie a la mode you’ve ever had! Reservations are a must!

Located on the south side of the Arno river, and a short walk from the city center, this is the place to try a bistecca alla fiorentina. As is custom, the steaks are priced by the kilo, and what’s available that evening is based on the cuts of meat they have available. If you’re traveling by yourself or with another person, come hungry if you plan to order the steak! If you’re not a steak eater, don’t worry! They also serve delicious pastas and other main dishes, and have an excellent selection of delicious desserts. The restaurant is charming and inviting. Reservations highly recommended.

Located across the Arno in the Santo Spirito neighborhood, don’t let the non-central location make you think this is a walk-up place. The area is hip and well-known, which means you need a reservation to get in here. You’ll often see a line outside, and unprepared diners are likely to be refused, as the restaurant will be full most evenings. They serve traditional Tuscan cuisine in a dark and moody, yet inviting atmosphere. They have their own forno (oven) and gastronomia (deli), so you know you’re going to get high quality breads, meats, and cheeses. Their pasta is excellently prepared. All in all - you’re going to enjoy your meal here!

This intimate restaurant is stunning. It has very few tables so book ahead of time! Being in the city center, you’ll have many passers-by that haven’t thought ahead, peek in, and disappointingly continue down the street with the realization the restaurant is filled for the night and there are no spots for spontaneous, unannounced diners. They have an extensive choice of menu options, so everyone will be able to find something they enjoy. We recommend trying at least one dish with black truffle, a delicacy of the region!

Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio is an incredible market that’s just a bit outside of the typical tourist district. There are a ton of great vendors to get groceries to take home, or to have a low key meal right there. We’ve stopped by La Caffeterria del Vecchio Mercato and had some of the most incredible sandwiches (panini) here - and they were only 6 euro for 2. This was such an affordable and substantial meal!

where to stay in Florence

where to stay in Florence

One of our favorite accommodations in the city, the NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa is a stunning property. We stayed here over the Christmas holidays and it was beautifully decorated and made our time even more special. The service was great, and the rooms were large, and it was within walking distance to everything. If you're looking for a hotel that is in the best area (including walking distance to the train station), this is your spot!  

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The first time we stayed in Florence, we stayed at Benci House. The location is fantastic -- away from the crowds but still close to everything. The hotel had a nice balcony that overlooked the street that leads to the Arno River, and we enjoyed some wine while it rained. If you're looking for a quieter place to stay with a modern, spa-like environment, we definitely recommend staying here. Book ahead as there are only 4 rooms.

benci house

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best gelato spots in Florence

Sbrino Gelatificio Contadino

Sbrino has 3 locations, all of which are in the Oltrarno neighborhood. It’s worth the trek if you happen to be staying north of the river. They use 100% organic milk and they’ve been recognized by Gambero Rosso as one of the best gelato shops in Florence. You’ll get great quality gelato here! When you come, be sure to look at the menu for their seasonal, unique flavors.

La Strega Nocciola has had great success and now has 6 stores,  with locations in Rome and Florence. In Florence, three of the locations are south of the river, but the one that we went to is located a short distance from the Duomo. While by no means a secret, it’s located down a nondescript street with less foot traffic. We usually steer clear of places near major attractions, but the quality and rich flavors of La Strega Nocciola were phenomenal and a gelato spot not to be missed.

what to drink in Florence

what to drink in Florence

Invented at Giacosa in 1919, this is one of our favorite drinks pre-meal. Composed of ⅓ sweet vermouth, ⅓ campari, and ⅓ gin, it’s a wonderfully bitter drink that satiates you for the cuisine of the evening. We recommend going to Giacosa late afternoon for aperitivo and getting one where it all started!

negroni

The Tuscany region is world-renowned for its Sangiovese grapes. The region produces some of the best wine in the world. At the top of the list for Tuscany is the Brunello di Montalcino and its younger version - Rosso di Montalcino. Both varietals come from the area around the commune of Montalcino, which is about a 2-hour drive south of Florence. They are made with 100% Sangiovese grapes, and pair well with the Bistecca alla Fiorentina.  

Brunello di Montalcino + Rosso di Montalcino Wine

The Brunello di Montalcino is not the only world famous wine out of Tuscany. Known for its famous logo, the black rooster, the Chianti Classico is also made primarily with Sangiovese grapes (at least 80%). The region that Chianti Classico DOCG can be produced is all over Tuscany and is going to be easier to find, with more producers than the Brunello di Montalcino or Rosso di Montalcino. It is a wonderful wine to have with meats and cheeses. 

Chianti Classico DOCG wine

what to Try in Florence

what to Try in Florence

For steak lovers, this is a must try. Like many other things Italian, there are specific qualifications that make a Bistecca alla Fiorentina. The cut must be from a breed of cattle called the Chianina. The Chianina could be the oldest breed of cattle in existence, and are known for their lean meat. The cut of meat is a T-bone, and it must be at least 3 fingers thick. There is no marinade; it is cooked over a bed of hot coals, then flavored with salt and olive oil after resting. It is cooked to sanguinoso - which means rare. The end product is a very high quality, delicious, and substantial steak. It is highly recommended to share this steak with others, as it's a huge portion of meat! It’s often difficult for just the two of us to finish.

Bistecca Alla Fiorentina

Tuscany is fortunate to have truffle season year-round. While varieties of truffle each have their own time of year they can be found, there are multiple different types that are found in the Tuscany region around Florence. Most of the year, varieties of black truffle are available. While not as rare as white truffles, black truffles are still prized and only found in very few places throughout the world. These are best enjoyed when shaved fresh as part of your meal. They are typically normally charged by the ounce, so sure to specify how much you want when they are shaving them at the table. A very special treat!

Black Truffle

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