Rome is the capital of Italy, and located centrally north/south in the country on the west coast. It is the major travel hub, both within Italy and internationally. It’s very accessible to get to and from other major Italian metropolitan cities via train or plane (book in advance for cheaper fares!).
Rome is the first city travelers think of when they want to visit Italy - us included. It was where we started our honeymoon on our first trip to Italy and our love affair with the country began. Planning for a trip to a foreign country for the first time is overwhelming, and no matter what, you can’t plan enough. That means when you venture around Rome, you’re going to see wide-eyed tourists virtually everywhere, anytime of year. As the saying goes, ‘All roads lead to Rome’, so the Romans have experienced this for centuries.
Rome is the most populated and the most visited city in Italy. As such, there’s no shortage of documentation out there. We’ll do our best to give our unique perspective on The Eternal City, show you hidden gems outside the bustle, and for when we do venture into the familiar classics, how to try to maximize and be prepared for the crowds.
roma
where to stay in Rome
where to stay in Rome
Sofitel Rome Villa Borghese
Le Méridien Visconti Rome
Photo Source: Le Méridien Visconti Rome
where to eat in Rome
With over 25 million visitors per year, there’s no shortage of places to eat. A lot of folks probably don’t have food as high on the priority list as we do, and thus are looking to fit something in between a visit between their packed agenda of historic locations throughout the city. Sometimes this convenience can result in ‘tourist traps’, and there’s a few rules of thumb you can follow to avoid them. These apply throughout Italy, but are even more so important in Rome. Avoid places with picture menus displayed outside the restaurant; the places that are good don’t need a person trying to convince you to come and eat; and if it’s in a famous and popular piazza, you’re probably paying for the view and the people watching, not the food.
With a bit of foresight and planning, Rome’s food scene is absolutely tremendous. There’s a mixture of classic dishes that have been exported throughout the world - they don’t taste better anywhere else. However, we urge you to also go beyond the classics and be an adventurous eater and try the traditional cucina romana, which includes offal portions. Eating quinto quarto are some of the most memorable and delicious meals we’ve had!
This is a delightful osteria located a bit south of the main pedestrian area in Trastevere. While you can order the classic Roman pasta dishes here, we encourage you to branch out and try their namesake, or any of the other offal they have on the menu that day. If you are lucky, you’ll be greeted by the restaurant owner and chef, Alessandra Ruggeri. She made our dining experience memorable and has the best recommendations. Highlights include anything from their trippa (tripe) section: specials like cervello (brain), pajata (often served with rigatoni), and if in season, Jerusalem artichokes. The shelves are packed with wine bottles, including a large selection of local cesanese options, which Alessandra will cheerfully find you a pick to match your meal. Finish your meal off with the tiramisu and you won’t be disappointed!
Once you step inside La Ciambella, you’ll immediately forget that it’s located near the chaos of Centro Storico. If you want the traditional Roman dishes served with exquisite ingredients, they have a tasting menu perfectly designed for that. There's also a selection of dishes devoted to the season, plus a wonderful selection of staples that chef Francesca Ciucci has created from her cooking experiences in Trastevere and Testaccio. Don’t be shy of the items with organ meats: the sweetbreads or oxtail are divine. The chef’s recipes and execution are perfect. We recommend the “Maritozzo”, which uses a lamb cacciatora for the filling. For dessert, order the “Il Ghetto”. We aren’t normally fans of cheese for dessert, but this ricotta and sour cherry tarts was one of our favorite desserts of the trip!
Tucked away on a nondescript street in the Monteverde neighborhood, this Osteria is worth seeking out. The staff are very welcoming, warm, and will ensure you have a great meal. The menu changes with the seasons, so you’ll know the ingredients are served at their freshest and best time of year to enjoy them. While we’re not always fans of tasting menus since they can be limiting in what you get to try, we highly recommend the tasting menu here. The price for the amount of food you get was the most reasonable we’ve seen, and we got to try everything we wanted to even if we had ordered a la carte! This is one restaurant that should not be missed.
While there are now two locations in Rome, we opted to dine at the original for a more authentic experience (away from the city center). Everything we tried was delicious. From the polpette (meatballs) with boiled meat and topped with pesto, to the classic pasta choices like Tonnarelli alla Gricia or the Rigatoni al Sugo della Coda alla Vaccinara (oxtail), you can't go wrong. Want something fried? Go for the totanto (“flying squid”). We also really enjoyed their panna cotta with chocolate - it did not say it on the menu, but we think there’s a hint of hazelnut in there! Be sure to book ahead.
Don’t let the location of Armando al Pantheon worry you. Although it’s located mere steps from the Pantheon, the Gargioli family has been serving up some of the city's best dishes since 1961. This is the place for Roman classics: rigatoni con la pajata, rigatoni all’amatriciana are absolutely great. Alongside the classics, there are creative options too. We suggest trying the bottoncino di pane con coratella d’abbacchio - heart, livers and lungs of lamb sandwiched between warm bread. It was incredible! Their selections of Cesanese wine are fantastic; if you’re there at the right time, they’ll pour you a sample of the bottle made specifically for them - an excellent compliment to the meal. Finish off with their tiramisu - unlike any other we tried. What could be better?
You can find this osteria in the Ostiense neighborhood. This is not an area you’ll find a lot of tourists, unless you’re going to a place that has Michelin accolades. Luckily for you, Osteria Fratelli Mori does not have a Michelin distinction (although the food is of that quality!). Come here for fresh appetizers, like the meatballs and the artichokes (when in season). Don’t skip on the pasta - while they offer all of theRoman classics, we opted for two of their specials that included a gnocchi with lamb ragu, artichoke, and mint that was divine. Make sure you check out the wine selection if you are in the mood to drink. Come here for a local, and family-friendly vibe!
Ercoli 1928 receives mixed reviews online, most stemming from comments that the restaurant is expensive. We aren't sure why, as we found it to be the same price point as Roscioli in Centro Storico. While we enjoyed the food at both places equally, Ercoli 1928 isn’t overrun with the massive crowds that you get in Centro Storico (we dined at the Trastevere location). This made our dining experience more pleasant (and spacious!). The deli counter is massive, with an incredible selection of meats and cheeses. If you’re undecided on what to choose, they have a board with mixed cold cuts that you won’t be disappointed by. The pasta dishes offer great pork choices like ragu di suino nero (Black pig). And, as a recurring theme you’ll find in Roman desserts, the Tiramisu here is delicious.
L’Elementare is a local Roman favorite. They use high quality ingredients that make a huge difference in the quality of their pizza!
We preferred going here over some other well-known places in Trastevere for this reason. We also enjoyed the less chaotic atmosphere and great service. While they have multiple locations, it's quite the popular spot, so make reservations at your preferred location ahead of time online! Opt for the Marinara Doppia - the sweetness of the yellow tomatoes paired with anchovies are a delicious combo!! And save room for Tiramisu - this ended up being one of our favorites on the trip.
Quick Bites + Street Food in Rome
Incredible, fast, cheap and tasty Roman street food. We have one favorite here - the chicken cacciatora. I used to have something of a similar name growing up in the United States in the 1980’s that made me fearful of trying this flavor at first, but I overcame that and was glad that I did. It’s a great choice and cheap eats! We went to the Trastevere location and the Testaccio location. The Testaccio one had no line when we arrived and was much more calm! The Trastevere location had a huge line before it opened, but they moved quickly and got everyone seated promptly.
While Rome may not be as famous for pizza as its southern neighbor, the city has a thriving pizza scene all its own. Rome is especially known for pizza al taglio, or “pizza by the slice.” What does that mean? It means that you choose how much pizza you want, and the price is calculated by weight. Our favorite is RUVER, just a 10-minute walk south of the Colosseum—perfect for grabbing a quick, delicious bite. Afterward, take a stroll around the nearby Circo Massimo for a scenic and historic backdrop to your pizza stop.
RUVER Teglia Frazionata
This market is just far enough from the city center to avoid the heavy crowds of places like Campo de' Fiori, yet still close enough that you’ll occasionally see city guides and food tours passing through. The variety of shops and food stalls is fantastic, making it the perfect spot to pick up fresh ingredients—especially if you’re staying nearby with access to a kitchen. We stopped here multiple times for groceries, but our favorite stop was Corrado al Banco 18, known for its excellent selection of natural wines and fresh pasta.
Drinks + Aperitivo in Rome
best gelato spots in Rome
Head to Testaccio for some gelato at Futura Gelateria. You will probably see owner Leonardo hard at his craft making exquisite gelato. He uses incredible flavors using top-notch ingredients. The flavor options are endless - classics, vegan and dairy-free options, and special blends that are unique and you won’t find elsewhere (like mascarpone with chocolate cream and cocoa crumble!). This is one of our favorite gelato shops in all of Italy.
This gelato shop is widely known and talked about (Bobby Flay is one of the many that has raved), so depending on when you’re in Rome, it might be a bit busy. We recommend going during off hours if you are able to, or be prepared to wait! There's also the location in Monteverde, which is further out, but likely less tourists than in Trastevere. Otaleg! (gelato spelled backwards) uses a ‘less is more’ mindset, and uses as few ingredients as possible - no additives or extra sugars! They have all of the classic gelato flavors as well as some of the most creative options you have ever seen.
what To See in Rome
The Classics
Rome is one of the most visited cities in the world, and its iconic landmarks draw crowds from across the globe. When visiting these sites, expect lines and larger crowds! It’s nearly impossible to avoid, and understandably so. These historic sites are incredible. Our advice: aim to visit during off-peak hours or less busy times of year (though we know that’s not always possible!). With these classic sites, there can be an overwhelming amount to see and navigate. In this case, we highly recommend booking a tour guide to get the most out of your visit - both from the history perspective and the guides’ expertise in navigating the crowds.
The Colosseum
Pantheon
Trevi Fountain
Villa Borghese + Galleria Borghese
Vatican City
Off The Beaten Path (kind of)
Rome is the #1 travel destination in Italy. It has a rich history and a huge cultural influence on the world today. With so many visitors to a major metropolitan city, calling anything off the beaten path is a bit of a stretch, but these places are going to be less well known and typically have less crowds.
Aventine Keyhole
Orto Botanico di Roma (Botanical Garden)
Fontana dell'Acqua Paola
Ex Mattatoio (former Slaughterhouses)
what to try in Rome
what to try in Rome
When artichokes are in season (from late February to early May), you will find two artichoke dishes common on menus throughout Rome: carciofi alla romana and carciofi alla giudia. Carciofi alla romana is pan braised, while carciofi alla giudia is deep-fried. Both are delicious, and fully edible; not something we’ve experienced in other areas of the world!
Artichokes
A pasta dish that you may have heard of before, but its history comes from Rome and there’s no better place in the world to have it. Carbonara is a simple dish with few ingredients (guanciale, pecorino romano, egg yolks, black pepper, and pasta); this means the very best in the city come down to the talents of the chef and the quality of the ingredients. This one is high up for multiple times of eating every time we’re in Rome.
Carbonara
With the same base meat (guanciale) and cheese (pecorino romano) as carbonara, amatriciana adds tomatoes (and a few other ingredients based on the chef) and takes away the egg yolks. Just these small differences make a world of difference in taste. It’s really hard for us to choose between the two; we often get one of each and share!
Amatriciana
To translate literally, cacio e pepper means “cheese and pepper”, which is exactly the type of pasta you’re going to get. Sounds simple? Anything but! We’ve tried to replicate it at home to no avail; when you get a great plate of cacio e pepe, you will be blown away and wonder how they’re able to make a pasta dish with so few ingredients that taste so good.
Cacio e Pepe
Pasta alla Gricia is a classic Roman pasta made with just a few simple ingredients: pasta (traditionally rigatoni or tonnarelli), Pecorino Romano, black pepper, and guanciale (cured pork jowl). Known as the “mother” of Roman pastas, it’s the foundation for two other beloved dishes: Carbonara (add eggs) and Amatriciana (add tomatoes).
Gricia
Another Roman classic, pajata, is worth trying if offal doesn’t scare you. Pajata is made with the intestines of a calf that has only been milkfed by its mother. It is typically served over Rigatoni with a tomato based sauce, and when cooked, the milk in the intestines produces an incredible creaminess, making the dish both tangy and savory. This pasta pairs extremely well with Cesanese wine! It quickly became my favorite pasta to order, and Rome is THE place to try it.
Pajata
Oxtail Ragu (coda alla vaccinara) is Roman cooking at its finest. While it may sound adventurous to eat (it’s from a cow, not an ox), we urge you to try it while in Rome. Cooking coda alla vaccinara is not easy; it requires hours of patience. When cooked right (and many of the most well-known and well-regarded places in Rome do a fantastic job), it just is heavenly. It has a ton of rich flavor that we’re sure you’ll enjoy!
Oxtail Ragù (Coda alla Vaccinara)
what to drink in Rome
what to drink in Rome
Cesanese is a red wine from Lazio, made from a grape with the same name. We had never heard of it before going to Rome, so it was a new experience the first time we ordered it - we were glad we did! It pairs very well with Roman cuisine, whether it be an offal dish or one of the pastas Rome is famous for. It’s a versatile red that we recommend you try for a wide variety of dishes (including seafood!).
Cesanese Wine
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