Lucca is a city rich with history. Its intact Renaissance era walls that surround the entire city are now one of the most iconic walking and biking paths you’ll ever encounter. There are multiple towers to climb for gorgeous views of the Tuscan countryside, and countless churches to see architecture and arts throughout the centuries. Lucca is also a city of culture. The city hosts the Lucca Summer Festival, an annual concert series that happens in July, drawing huge acts from all over the world. In October, the Lucca Comics & Games fills the city - an annual event that is one of the most important and largest events of its kind in Europe. Nightly Puccini concerts take place throughout the city. Lucca's ongoing calendar of events keeps the city lively.
With less than 100,000 residents in the city center, it is not a bustling metropolis. With decent transportation options in and out of the city, you can easily get to Lucca from nearby Pisa or Florence by train or car. What this means is there are certainly a lot of folks that come here for the day, but clear out and continue on the tours by night. You get a little of the best of both worlds - a city supported by tourism that feels alive with its cultural events, and yet, doesn’t feel overrun at every waking moment.
Let's talk about the food! Lucca is geographically located where you get a blend of food that is unique and not found in many other locations. It’s in Tuscany, so you get all the wonderful meat options, the chestnuts, the pasta varieties that are local to the region. It is located close enough to the sea (less than an hour by car) that you get seafood options like clams and red shrimp. It is close enough to Liguria (Genoa and Santa Margherita Ligure are less than 3 hours away), that you can eat pesto and very tasty Focaccia. Finally, offal is served in Lucca almost everywhere. A huge amount of variety on the menus, which is not typically the case, especially for the size of this commune!
Come to Lucca, stay inside the walls, and forget the car for a while. You’ll immerse yourself in a blend of past and present, of many different cultural experiences, and with food options that seem endless!
Lucca
where to stay in Lucca
where to stay in Lucca
Guinigi Apartment
where to eat in Lucca
Giorgio and Anna run a wonderful ristorante in the heart of Lucca. A newcomer that has only just opened in 2024, we see big things to come! The menu changes seasonally, so you know you will be getting the freshest ingredients at their peak. Visiting in the fall, we suggest getting anything on their menu that has zucca (literally pumpkin, but can also be certain squashes, like butternut squash). Other great items are the sweetbreads, which are cooked perfectly, and the pasta service with deer ragù. Giogio also makes some incredible desserts - we loved his tiramisù! We can’t wait to come back to this one!
Buca di’Sant’Antonio can verify it has been operating since 1782, but there are signs it has been around much longer - potentially back as early as the 1400s! Being a restaurant for hundreds of years means you know how to treat guests and how to cook. They begin the dining experience with a free glass of sparkling wine and savory pastry bites! The menu makes it extremely tough to order, as every dish sounds amazing. You would need several trips here to try them all! They make great neccio (a chestnut pancake served as a starter), along with traditional soups, and well prepared grilled meats - we suggest the capretto (goat). Save room for castagnaccio (chestnut cake) for dessert if you want to try something traditional that's not too sweet! Be sure to book ahead on their website.
Buca Di Sant'Antonio
The first thing you notice when you walk in is the eclectic decor - the vintage drink signs displayed throughout that give this space character! It’s a great contrast to the white table cloths, elevated food offerings, and extensive wine list you will choose from. At the table, you’re warmly greeted with a complimentary glass of sparkling wine and an aperitif, just to get the meal going. The food itself also has a blend of traditional and inventive tastes; we recommend the cervello fritto that melts in your mouth, the clams with a delicious broth, and pasta that goes with the season. Finally, order the ‘desperate, erotic Tiramiù’ for dessert. We don’t know why it’s called that, but it’s an excellent way to finish off the meal!
In the northwest part of town, you'll find Trattoria da Giulio. This restaurant opened in 1945 and is now on its third generation. Trattoria da Giulio has an extensive menu of all the traditional Lucchese favorites, all at reasonable prices. The amount of seating here is impressive - they have a large indoor space, but also a great patio as well. Take advantage of dining alfresco if the weather is cooperating! We suggest ordering a traditional dish, like pici pasta with sausage, mushrooms, and tomato sauce. A simple recipe, but very tasty! For dessert, get the tiramisù or the cantucci e buccellato served with Vin Santo.
In the northeast part of town, along the Via del Fasso (Lucca’s Canal Street - very important during Lucca’s peak silk history in the 1200s and 1300s) sits Ristorante Mecenate. The location was formerly home to a laundromat (peep the historic sign above the door when you arrive). Ristorante Mecenate serves some of the best traditional Lucchesi food in town - think tordelli lucchese (a stuffed pasta akin with meats and spices, topped with a ragù sauce cooked), tacconi (a ribbon pasta) served with rabbit, and chicken liver pate served on bread with prosciutto. For dessert, the zuppa inglese is amazing. It pairs nicely with a glass of biadina - a traditional digestif served with pine nuts. Book ahead by calling or emailing!
Locanda Buatino is a few minutes walk north of town. Their menu is traditional Lucchese and they offer a great lunch special that includes one primo, one secondo, one contorno, and 0.5 liter of water. Dessert and coffee are also very reasonably priced if you have room to indulge. This was our favorite tordelli lucchese in Lucca! Filled with an excellent blend of meat and topped with a mild meat ragù, this alone is worth making the trek. Other recommendations include anything they make with acciughe (anchovies), their arista al forno (roasted pork), and the side of vegetables. The cakes they make are also delicious! We especially loved la torta con crema e pinoli and la torta al amaretto.
best gelato spots in Lucca
There are certain ‘rules of thumb’ that we follow when we search out the best gelato. Don’t go to places with gelato piled high, avoid bright gelato colors, and skip the places with ‘toppings’ on the gelato (like chocolate syrup drizzled over to make it ‘look good’. As we searched and combed over Lucca, there seems to be a lot of highly rated and “the best” in town that just don’t make the cut for us. But after some exploring around town, we found the best shop!
Inspired and mentored by Gianfrancesco Cotelli, of famed Gelateria De’ Coltelli in Pisa, you can tell they take great care in their craft of creating gelato, using only the best ingredients. Having been to Gelateria De’ Coltelli in Pisa, we can confirm that Ele is on the same level of quality and deliciousness. This hidden gem is close to Piazza San Michele (a highlight on every tour group), yet somehow a missed opportunity for most. Avoid the lines at the fake gelato shops and go here - you won’t be disappointed!
Ele Gelati e Granite
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